Class 
Book 



HOW TO SEE NORWAY. 



LONDON : PRINTED BY 
SPOTTISWOODE AND CO., NEW-STREET SQUARE 
AND PARLIAMENT STREET 




N^ESDAL AND ITS GLACIER, NORDFJORD. 



HOW TO SEE NORWAY. 



BY 



K> 



/ 



JOHN R^'C AMPBELL. 



Og nok en Skaal for Norges Fjeld, 
for Klipper, Sne og Bakker ! 
hor Dovres Ekko raaber Held, 
for Skaalen tre Gang' takker. 
Ja tre Gang' tre skal alle Fjeld 
for Norges Sonner raabe Held ! 
Endnu en Skaal for dig, mit Fjeld ! 
for Klipper, Sne og Bakker ! 

Old Norsk Song. 



LONDON : 

LONGMANS, GREEN, AND CO. 
1871. 



38538 




PREFACE. 



The FOLLOWING PAGES are little more than a re- 
print of two papers on Norway, written by me for 
the Alpine Journal, viz. ' Travelling in Norway ' 
and ' Excursions in Norway/ which appeared in the 
numbers for May 1868, and August 1870, respec- 
tively. These articles have been carefully revised 
and corrected for the present work, and in many 
places I have inserted some remarks which were 
wanting in the originals. To the above papers I 
have now added a new chapter on the coast route 
between Throndhjem and Hammerfest, giving the 
mail steamers' time-table, correct for last year ; and, 
in order to render the little volume more complete, 
a map of the greater portion of Norway is appended, 
whereon the principal routes noticed in the text are 
shown by red lines. All the engravings are from 
sketches of my own. 

That the present work has no claim to be con- 
sidered a minute guide to so vast a country as Norway 
I need hardly say. I venture to hope, however, that 
embodying, as it does, an experience derived from 



VI 



Preface. 



six summer tours in that country, it may still be of 
service to future travellers, by giving them in a con- 
densed form the ' rules of the road,' with all neces- 
sary advice for those planning a first tour ; by indi- 
cating, also, the features both of the country and its 
inhabitants most worthy of a stranger's attention ; 
and, lastly, by affording some information respecting 
the choice of routes and the localities in which the 
best scenery is found. Several of the districts I have 
touched upon are as yet almost unknown to the 
travelling world, e.g., that of Aardal leading to the 
great Morkfos — probably about the grandest waterfall 
in the north of Europe. 

My best thanks are due to the editor of the ' Norsk 
Rigstidende,' for the compliment he paid me by volun- 
tarily inserting translations of both my papers in his 
daily journal ; as also to the Norske Turistforening 
for giving a translation of the second (viz. ' Excursions 

o 

in Norway'), a place in their interesting Arbog of 
last year. 

John Robert Campbell. 



May 4, 187 1. 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER I. 

Best Months for Norway — Steamers from England to Christiania and 
Bergen — Land route via Germany, Denmark, and Sweden — Luggage 
— Norwegian Money — Custom-house — Norwegian Language — Re- 
semblance it bears to the Cumberland Dialect — Strong trace of Nor- 
wegian Blood found in the People of the English Lake District — 
Travelling, modes of — Tolks — Tariff for Karjoler, Stolkjcerrer, and 
Boats — Guide-books and Maps — A Traveller's Expenses per Day — 
The Norwegian Horse — Remarks upon Driving — Certain Advice, 
which the reader will do well not to follow . . . page i 

CHAPTER II. 

General Aspect of the Country — Trees, most common— Construction 
of Country-houses — Gaards — Food — Pauper Regulations — Cultiva- 
tion of Land — Irrigation — Scster, or Summer Cheese-farms — Cattle 
— Natural Politeness and Good Feeling characteristic of the Nor- 
wegians — Division of the Country into A inter— Public Functionaries 
— Army — Church System — Landhandler — National Character — 
Scarcity of Blackguards — Educational System — School Books, and 
what Children are taught — Birthplace of English Nursery Tales — 
Field Sports — Ptarmigan (Ryper) and other Birds — Game Laws — 
Wild Reindeer — Beasts of Prey — Bears — Fruit [note)— Salmon- 
fishing — Trout-fishing — Singing Birds, scarcity of . . .17 



viii 



Contents. 



CHAPTER III. 

Scenery of Norway compared with that of Switzerland — Turistforen- 
mgen (note) — Localities most remarkable for grandeur of Scenery 
— Triangular Area in which most of the best Scenery is found — The 
Arctic Coast — Its Population — Mirage and other Atmospheric Phe- 
nomena — Lofoten Islands — Lapps and their Reindeer— Quains— 
Midnight Sun ' . . . PAGE 31 



CHAPTER IV. 

Throndhjem— Road from there to Christiania — Romsdal and Romsdal- 
horn — Route from Molde to the Nordfjord — Geiraitgerjjord, one of 
the three finest Fjorde in Norway — Horningdalsrokken, ascent of — 
Mountains grouped together in Blocks, a Feature of the Country — 
The Nordfjord — Taaning — Kirkencebbet — Lodendal and N<zsdal — 
Brixdalsbrce and other Glaciers — St. Ceciliaskrone, ascent of — Flowers 
on the Top — Bredkeimsvand — Fjorde, their general Character — 
Valleys of the Sognefjord — Ronnei — Jostedal — Nigaardsbrce and 
Tunbergsdalsbrce — Veitestrand — Horungtinder — Klippernaasi y view 
from — Pass from Berge to Rodsheim — Galdhopigge, ascent of — Glitter - 
tifid — Ole Rosheim — Road from Lcerdal, through Valders to Gjdvig — 
Gudvangen and Ncerodalen — Hardangerfjord — Buerbrce — Ringedal 
and its Water-falls — Norwegian Towns — Bergen — The Lysefjord — 
Old Moraines — Jettegryder, or Giants' Kettles — Tides in the Fjorde 
— Thelemarken — Costume — Dirt — Old Wooden Churches — The 
Rjukanfos ......... 39 



CHAPTER V, 

Excursions in Norway — I. Torghatten — 2. Fjcerland — 3. The 
Mbrkfos ... . . . ... - k ,.' » .5$ 



CHAPTER VI. 
Notes on the Coast Route between Throndhjem and Hammerfest . 



73 



ILLUSTRATIONS. 

1. N/ESDAL AND ITS GLACIER .... Froiltisfuce 

2. Vaagekallen — Lofoten Islands .... Page 35 

3. Horningdalsrokken » 41 

4. horungtinderne from the pass . . . 47 

5. The Morkfos ....... To fate page 67 



HOW TO SEE NORWAY. 



CHAPTER I. 

Best Months for Norway — Steamers from England to Christiania and 
Bergen — Land route via Germany, Denmark, and Sweden — Luggage 
— Norwegian Money — Custom-house — Norwegian Language — Re- 
semblance it bears to the Cumberland Dialect — Strong trace of Nor- 
wegian Blood found in the People of the English Lake District — 
Travelling, modes of — Talks — Tariff for Karjoler, Stolkjcerrer, and 
Boats — Guide-books and Maps — A Traveller's Expenses per Day — 
The Norwegian Horse — Remarks upon Driving — Certain Advice, 
which the reader will do well not to follow. 

Of all months July is the pleasantest for travellers in 
Norway ; generally having a greater number of fine warm 
days in it than any other. June and August are also good j 
although early in June the weather is frequently chilly, and 
towards the middle of August it often breaks or remains 
long unsettled. After August the days draw in rapidly ; 
nevertheless, tourists may remain without inconvenience 
from the climate another month or more. Sportsmen con- 
tinually do so for the shooting. June and July have, naturally, 
an advantage in length of daylight over all the other months. 
In the North, during this period, there is no real night ; and 
even in Christiania, throughout the latter half of June, one 
may read by twilight at 12 p.m. By landing, therefore, at 
Bergen about the 1st of June, you have at least three good 
months before you to spend in a voyage up the Arctic coast, 
in exploring the more remarkable of those silver Fjorde which 

B 



2 



How to See Norway. 



run deep into the country, and in visiting portions of that 
wild web of mountains which, with hardly an interval of 
plain, extends over the whole of the kingdom. 

It need scarcely be said that a country so large — whose 
picturesque localities, besides being numerous, are so widely 
separated, where railways are yet in their infancy, and 
through whose mountain-glens the traveller must, therefore, 
proceed either on foot or by Karjol — cannot thoroughly be 
6 done ' in one season. Three months, however, enable a 
traveller to take a glance up the wonderful north coast, and 
afterwards, landing at Molde or Throndhjem, 1 to follow an 
overland route southwards, which shall embrace some of the 
grandest scenes ; or, if less ambitious, his whole time may 
well be devoted to an examination of certain districts — say 
those of the Nordtjord and Jostedalsfjeld. 

I have made six pleasant summer tours in Norway, and still 
remain a stranger to several of the grandest glens. Let me 
honestly admit, however, I am but a lazy man on a tour, 
often spending weeks in a neighbourhood which pleases me, 
where most that is remarkable might be seen by more 
energetic travellers in a couple of days. My idea is, that 
much of the charm of Norway is derived from intercourse 
with the people themselves. 

There are several routes from England to Norway, and a 
traveller, in selecting one, must consult his pocket, the time 
at his disposal, and his seaworthiness, i.e. capability of 
enduring a voyage. Some people suffer so much on board 
ship that they would willingly journey a roundabout way 
rather than chance a gale at sea. Storms on the North Sea 
are generally of shorter duration and perhaps less violent in 
summer than later in the year ; but you are never safe from 
them, go when you will. Now, the most direct way, as well 

1 The English call this town (the ancient capital of Norway) Dront- 
heim. I prefer, however, giving it the Norwegian appellation ; and 
shall generally, in the following pages, write all proper names as they 
appear in Norsk. 



Steamers from England. Overland Route. 3 

as the cheapest, is by steamer from Hull or London to 
Christiansand.' Messrs. Wilson and Sons' steamers leave 
Hull every Friday, and London (I believe) every Thursday 
in summer, and one may reckon on reaching Christiansand 
from Hull in less than 48 hours, except the weather be very 
bad. I once made the passage in something under 38, with 
their ' Scandinavian.' There is also the 6 North Star,' from 
London, belonging to another company. Messrs. Wilson 
now have steamers from Hull to Bergen and other Norwegian 
ports, the times of sailing being of course well advertised. 
At Christiansand (where there is nothing to see) the steamers 
make a few hours' stoppage before proceeding on to Christi- 
ania — thereby making the whole voyage from England to 
Christiania one of three days. The course after leaving 
Christiansand being along the coast and up the Christiania- 
fjord, is frequently through smooth water for the greater part 
of the way, whatever it may have been before. The first-class 
fare from Hull to Christiania is 4/., exclusive of provisions ; 
and a return-ticket, available for the whole season, costs 61. 
I believe the 6 North Star ' company charge about the same. 
I speak, of course, of what has been ; another year, fares and 
times of departure may be changed. Norway is well provided 
with excellent steamers all along the coast ; so that anyone 
landing at Christiansand has not long to wait — seldom more 
than a day — for a boat to the North. The coast route, 
however, between Christiansand and Throndhjem is hardly 
remarkable for scenery. 

A somewhat circuitous, but very interesting route is the 
following : — Through Belgium and Germany to Hamburgh • 
thence {via rail through Jutland) to Copenhagen ; across the 
narrow strip of sea to Sweden, and up that country (nearly 
all the way by rail) to Christiania. This gives one an oppor- 
tunity of spending a few days in the Danish capital, where, in 
the shape of museums, Thorwaldsen's sculptures, &c. there is 
a vast deal to see. The environs are very pretty, especially 
one or two royal parks, splendidly wooded with beech. By 

b 2 



4 



Hozv to See Norway. 



a short detour Stockholm, too, may be visited on the way. 
It is the most charmingly situated capital north of the 
Mediterranean, and, including excursions in the neighbour- 
hood, will occupy the traveller a week. That beautiful series 
of lakes linked together by short artificial channels, the Gota 
Canal, which, like a belt of water, joins the North Sea with 
the Baltic, may be included in the route. The scenery 
traversed by it is charming here and there, but never grand, 
the country being too flat. The lakes are most irregular in 
shape, studded with wooded islands, and bedded in an 
undulating country, which is almost a continued forest of 
birch and fir. Little cultivation is visible ; at intervals you 
pass a log house painted red, and now and then a village 
in a clearing \ but these are few and far between. The 
celebrated falls of Trollhcetta (close to a point on the canal) 
are mere rapids, and the traveller need waste no time over 
them, as they cannot be compared with, I might almost say, 
a hundred in the sister land. Sweden, however, deserves a 
summer to itself ; there is so much to interest one both in 
country and town. The ironworks and mines are, perhaps, 
the most remarkable features of the country, and well worth 
the inspection of all whose taste lies that way. During a 
summer I spent there, nothing struck me more than the 
hospitality of the Swedes. I landed without introductions 
and had no means of returning civilities, and yet in no part 
of the world have I met with disinterested kindness so 
great. 

Next, with regard to luggage. In every mountain country 
you meet two classes of travellers : first, those who, prepared 
to walk and rough it, seek out Nature in her seclusion by 
glacier and peak ; and, secondly, ' roadsters/ if such I may 
term that numerous and respectable flock who, following 
each other along some hackneyed route, content themselves 
with what grandeur of scenery the king's highway affords. 
Now, it is only the first class who can thoroughly explore 
Norway ; and for them a knapsack must suffice, or, at all 



Luggage, Money, etc. 



5 



events, such light baggage as a man can carry on his back. 
However, a vast deal may be done by leaving your heavy 
portmanteau at a roadside inn, making circular walking 
tours through the surrounding district, and then posting on 
to some other central point. A good many passes are 
traversable by ponies j and a pony will carry a portmanteau 
across his back, or two smaller packages (generally enclosed 
in nets made of birch twig), slung one on each side; but 
the whole weight for a day's journey ought not to exceed 
ioolbs. As to the roadster, he can drag about much more. 
Should his own karjol be insufficient to hold all his luggage, 
he can hire two vehicles, or send a portion forward in a 
cart. 

English circular notes can be changed at the principal 
towns. The Norwegian currency is tolerably simple. A 
Specie Daler is about 4s. 6d. ; a Mark or Ort the fifth part 
of this, and divided into 24 Shilling. It is a good thing 
to have the greater part of your money in 1 -Daler notes; 
those of larger value are often difficult to change. When 
posting, you are called upon for minute payments all day 
long ; hence a leather bag of small coin is very handy ; 
12-Skilling pieces are the most useful. 

I may here observe that passports are not required, and 
that the Norwegian custom-house seldom gives any trouble. 
Of course there are articles you pay duty on ; for instance, 
jam, which some travellers have been known to bring ; but 
the ordinary luggage of a tourist contains nothing liable to 
a tax. There are good shops in the chief towns, where most 
wants can be supplied. If you require water-colours, or 
fishing-tackle, you had better purchase them before leaving 
home ; but capital 'birdseye' is sold at about one-third the 
English price. 

Danish being a language understood by few who visit 
Norway, the profession of travelling interpreter has sprung 
up. A Tolk, as he is called, can generally be hired at 
Christiania or Bergen to accompany a party on their tour. 



6 



How to See Noi'way. 



He is a travelling mouthpiece, and often a great bore. 
Where there are ladies, a 'willing' tolk may save much 
trouble ; but he ought thoroughly to understand before you 
engage him that he is to act as servant in case of need. 
However, a propos of ladies in Norway, few of them will 
enjoy struggling through the wilder parts of the country; 
the absence of comfort is too great, save for the 'very fast/ 
If they will go, let them keep to the main routes ; it is a 
mistake when they attempt more. Men usually manage to 
make their way without a tolk, who is a being altogether 
different from a Swiss guide. He costs more than anyone 
of the party, for you have to pay for his horses, his board, 
and to give him a daler a day besides. The somewhat scant 
vocabulary in Murray (with sundry additions picked up on 
the road) is all that is essential to enable one to blunder 
along. Still, ignorance of the language is productive of 
constant inconvenience. Language is the key to travelling : 
it enables one to ask questions. Without it, one learns only 
by observation — few people, even along the grand routes, 
speaking any but their mother tongue. The usual inability 
of Englishmen to converse, many of whom know little 
beyond the two words 6 Hest, strax !' (meaning 'Horse, 
immediately ! ') is almost a joke throughout the land. 

Now, Danish (or Norsk) is the easiest Continental 
language we English can learn. This comes partly from the 
simplicity of its grammar, but principally from the affinity 
Danish words have with our own ; and I cannot do better 
than advise those who purpose travelling in Norway, and 
have time, to study Danish — say for a couple of months, 
under a master — previous to commencing their tour. 

As no doubt most of my readers are aware, the modern 
language of Norway is identical with Danish in print, both 
Danes and Norwegians using the sanie dictionary and 
grammar. A few remarks on its construction, as dis- 
tinguishing it from other tongues, although necessarily 
incomplete, may not be out of place here. The pecu- 



The Norwegian Language. 7 



liarities in the construction, are principally confined to 
two, namely, the position of the definite article and the 
formation of the passive voice. The definite article (where 
there is no adjective) is placed after, and joined on to, the 
noun. In form, however, it is the same as the indefinite, 
being en for the common gender (which includes masculine 
and feminine), et for the neuter, and, when used for the 
definite, ne for the plural of both genders. En Dal, for 
instance, means a valley ; Dalen, the valley ; et Fjeld, a 
mountain ; Fjeldet, the mountain. Oer is the plural of 0, 
signifying island ; and adding the syllable ne to it, you get 
Oerne, the islands. A verb is changed from active to passive 
by the addition of an s to the infinitive. Thus hade is to 
hate ; hades, to be hated ; 6 jeg hader,' I hate ; 4 jeg hades/ I 
am hated. 

The pronunciation of the language is different in Norway 
and Denmark. The vowels a, e, z, 0, <z, and (which last is 
properly with a stroke through it) have, in both countries, 
nearly the same sounds as in German ; y corresponds to the 
French u ; and aa (a in Swedish) is pronounced like a in our 
word ' ball.' The consonants, also, are generally the same 
as in German; but there are exceptions to this, as in the 
case of g followed by e, z, y, a, or 0. I may further mention 
that a d following another consonant is nearly mute. Thus, 
Fjord is pronounced Fee-or. Now Norsk differs from Danish 
principally in the sound of sk, when those two letters precede 
any one of the vowels e, i, y, ce, and 0. In the former lan- 
guage k is then sounded like h (as in Swedish), while in the 
latter it takes a complicated sound, which it would be 
difficult in a few words to explain. As an example, Thee-skee 
(tea-spoon) a Norwegian pronounces 'Tay shay;' Skib 
(ship) he calls 1 sheeb ; ' whilst a Dane sounds the word 
almost like ' sk'yeeb.' I have dwelt rather on this subject 
as the majority of grammars are by Danes, and therefore 
the pronunciation taught by them is essentially Danish, 
no notice being taken of the Norsk. 



8 



How to See Norway. 



Although Danish is the language of the educated, and is 
generally understood by all, the peasantry speak dialects 
{Bondesprog) among themselves, varying with the locality, 
but all of them retaining more or less of the old Norsk, the 
ancient language of Norway, of which Icelandic is a rem- 
nant. Many words used by the peasants are Swedish rather 
than Danish. Thus they say honom (him), Vecka (week), 
instead of ham and Uge, the corresponding words in the 
latter tongue, and hence it is difficult for a Dane to under- 
stand the peasantry in many parts of Norway. 

The resemblance between our Cumberland, or rather Lake 
district dialect, and the Scandinavian languages is singularly 
striking. Below are a few examples. In the left column I 
have given Cumberland words, and in the right their equiva- 
lents in Norsk (save where otherwise stated); all words on 
the same line having the same meaning. The Cumberland 
terms I have spelt as they are pronounced. 

Barn, a child . . . Barn 
Bane, straight or short . . Been (straight) 
Beck, a stream . . . Bcek 
Brant, or Brunt, steep . .' Brat 
Cleg, a fly that bites horses . Klceg 

Fell, a mountain . . . Fjeld (means a mountain, or a block 

of mountains) 

Force, a waterfall . . . Fors (Old Norsk) and Fos 1 (modern 

word) 

Gang, to go . . . . Gange (old word, the modern is gaae) 
Gill, a mountain stream hem- "1 Geil (Old Norsk, a cleft, or Schlucht 



Holm, a small island . . Holm 
How, a little hill in a valley . Haugr (?) (Old Norsk) 
Ken, to know, be acquainted 

with ..... Kenna (Old Norsk), Kjende (modern) 
Kilt, part of a Highland cos- 
tume . Kyltl (Old Norsk, meaning shirt) 
Lai, or Lahl (some write it 

Lite), little . . . Lille 



med in by rocks 
He-am, or Yahm, home 




Hjem 



1 This word in Norwegian books is often spelt Foss ; I am unable to 
say which form is most correct. 



Modes of Travelling. 



9 



Lake, a romp or play . . Leek (Swedish), Leik (Norsk) 
Late, to seek . . . Leita (Icelandic), Leta (Swedish) 
Mere, a lake, a water . . Myre (meaning a marsh) 
Midden, or Middin, a dunghill Modding 
Roantree, mountain ash . . Rongn 

Scar, escarpment or range of "1 Skar (signifying a col or indentation 

rocks J in the mountain-top) 

Slape, slippery . . . Sleip 
Tarn, a small mountain lake . Tjern 

Many of the above are purely Norwegian words, unknown 
in Denmark. Nowhere in England is our Scandinavian 
blood so little intermixed with that of other races as in 
Cumberland and Westmoreland, and in saying this I am 
paying the North of England people no bad compliment. 
It shows itself, not only in the dialect, but also in the physi- 
ognomy of the people, and in some of their old customs, as, 
for example, that of firing guns over a house on the occa- 
sion of a wedding. 

With the exception of the excellent steamers which run 
along the coast, those plying on the principal fjorde and 
lakes, and some short bits of railway (mostly leading from 
Christiania), there are no public conveyances in Norway. 
The roads and banks of the fjorde are portioned out into 
stages or Skyds, averaging in length from i to Norwegian 
miles — a Norwegian mile being about 7 English. 1 At the 
end of every skyds there is a post-house or Station, usually 
a farm-house, which supplies the place of an inn, and you 
hire a horse and trap (or a boat, as the case may be) from 
one such station to the next. The roads are wonderfully 
good along the main lines. They are kept in repair by the 
owners of the land through which they pass, each pro- 
prietor being bound by law to attend to a length marked 
out by posts. The common vehicles for hire at the stations 
are Karjoler and Stolkjcerrer. The first is a sort of low gig, 
holding one. It is mounted on long shafts, from which is 

1 Except where otherwise stated, I shall give distances in English 
miles. 



10 



How to See Norway. 



derived the spring, the weight being supported between the 
axletree behind you and the horse's neck. Your port- 
manteau is lashed to a board or frame over the axletree, and 
perched upon this is a man, boy, or sometimes little girl, who, 
after leaving you at the next station, drives back the horse. 
There is hardly any sort of carriage so easy as a karjol. Not 
so the stolkjaerre (or ' seat cart '), which is apt to shake one 
to bits. This latter, the national carriage of the country, 
holds two, and is nothing but a tray on two low wheels, 
having a seat placed across wooden arms, which branch back 
from the shafts, to which their lower ends are fixed. The 
tray is a capital receptacle for luggage ; but this ought 
always to be secured with a cord. I have driven hundreds 
of miles in these little carts, and often wish I had one in 
England. They are certainly not so comfortable (especially 
over rough ground) as a karjol \ but it must be borne in 
mind, that to see Norway a man must rough it (save on the 
beaten track); and one who cannot jolt in a cart, sup on 
porridge, and sleep with a flea, had better never go there. 
He will enjoy himself more on the Rhine. 

Many tourists engage karjols at Christiania, and keep 
them until they return there ; the advantage in doing so 
being that your luggage has not to be shifted at each station. 
I once was foolish enough to buy a new one, which I after- 
wards sold at a loss of about 2/. Men bound on mountain 
expeditions ought never to encumber themselves with such 
lumber, for it can only be taken along a road or in a boat ; 
and at the foot of the first mountain pass you must leave it 
or send it home. Stolkjaerrer are to be had at nearly every 
road station ; karjols less frequently — only on the great 
lines. 

Without going fully into the scale of charges for horses 
and boats, I may mention that you pay by distance, and 
that the prices are all fixed by law. Stations are of two 
kinds, fast ' and tilsigelse. At fast stations the postmaster 
{Skydsskaffer) is bound to keep a certain number of horses 



Tariff for Karjoler, Boats, etc. 1 1 



for the public service, and which are supposed to be ready 
at hand when the traveller arrives. On most of the main 
routes now the stations are fast. On the other hand, the 
tilsigelse station-master need possess few horses of his own, 
the farmers living within a certain radius being bound to 
supply the stage in turn. So that, landing at one of these 
latter stations, you must not grumble should you have two 
hours to wait — the only horse you are entitled to possibly 
being fetched from a distance of 3^ English miles ! I am 
painting about the worst case, for I have seldom had long 
to wait myself. Some people when they journey send a 
Forbud on before. This messenger (often their tolk) orders 
the relays to be ready at the time they expect to arrive. 
Where the party is numerous, this may be all very well. It 
greatly depends on the road — whether it is one much fre- 
quented, &c. But there cannot be a greater mistake than 
travelling in a swarm. A party ought not to exceed two 
or three, many of the smaller stations possessing but one 
decent room. My plan has generally been to travel quite 
alone, and to start early of a morning. 

A horse taken from a fast station costs 36 skilling a Nor- 
wegian mile ; a karjol 6 sk., stolkjserre 4 sk. Two travellers 
in a stolkjaerre is termed a halvanden (i.e. 'one and a half') 
skyds, and horse and cart together are then charged half a 
daler a mile. From tilsigelse stations horses are only 24 sk. 
a mile, vehicles the same as from the ' fast.' Here, however, 
the skydsskafTer is paid 4 sk. per horse for the stage (inde- 
pendent of its length). In addition to these authorised 
charges, the boy who accompanies you expects a trifle for 
himself. The English generally give 6 sk. a mile — this is 
called Drikkepenge, or drink-money. Thus it will be seen a 
horse and karjol cost about 2d. or 3d. an English mile, ac- 
cording as they are hired from a tilsigelse station or from a 
fast ditto. 

Boating is charged according to the number of oars. 
There are also the two kinds of stations, as before described 



12 



How to See Norway. 



in reference to land. From fast stations two men and a 
boat come to 2 marks 8 skilling a Norsk mile. With three 
pulling, the fare is 3 m. 12 sk. From tilsigelse stations a 
boat and two men cost 2 m., with three men 3 m. At these 
latter stations (not the 'fast') you pay 2 sk. per rower {Til- 
sigelse to the station-master) for the whole stage. 

There is an annual publication called the Lomme-Reise- 
route, or pocket route-book. It is the ' Bradshaw' of Nor- 
way, and can be bought at any of the towns. It contains 
all the laws of posting and boats, with tables for calculating 
the charges at a glance. All the principal roads are laid 
down, with the distances between each station and the next. 
The best sleeping-places are indicated ; the game laws are 
explained; and besides all this, there is a syllabus of mountain 
tours. Mr. Bennet, a most useful English gentleman resident 
in Christiania (who furnishes karjols, arranges with tolks, 
&c), publishes a book on the same plan as this in English, 
and the traveller will do well to procure either one or the 
other. As to the larger guide-books, I like Murray. There 
may be little inaccuracies here and there, owing to changes 
in stations, &c, and it would be well were there a completely 
revised edition, but, as it is, it is a capital book. Of travel- 
ling maps, the Veikart, by Waligorski og Wergeland, appears 
to me to be the best. New maps on a large scale are gradu- 
ally appearing — sheets of which might be serviceable to any- 
one confining himself to certain districts. 

About 10s. a day ought to cover a man's expenses — sup- 
posing him not always driving about in a karjol. A pedes- 
trian would not spend more than half this ; indeed Mr. Wil- 
liams, in his ' Norway with a Knapsack,' seems to have got 
along much cheaper. I think, however, he roughed unne- 
cessarily. To read his book, one would think he delighted 
in misery. If you travel for pleasure, drive where there is a 
road. The expense of living is trifling, compared to what it 
costs in most other countries, but the charges at different 
stations vary very considerably. From 2s. to 4s. 6d. a-day 



The Norwegian Horse, 13 

may be reckoned an average — exclusive of the capital bot- 
tled beer (Bairisk 01, at about a quart). The cuisine is 
of the simplest, seldom comprising fresh meat, save on the 
principal roads. In the towns the charges are much greater 
than what I have mentioned. In some of the favourite 
hotels an extra price is put on for the English — at least, so 
it is said. The English, by their lavish expenditure, are fast 
spoiling the country both for themselves and for other tra- 
vellers, and this is not merely my opinion, but the opinion 
of all Norwegians with whom I have conversed on the 
subject. 

The Norwegian horse, or rather pony — for few of them 
stand fourteen hands, and they are generally much smaller — 
is an animal one can hardly praise too well. In no country 
that I am acquainted with, save Iceland, are these little 
animals, as a class, so good. The traveller must not take 
for examples some of the sorry specimens he may be wearied 
with on a highway journey, as that from Christiania to 
Throndhjem. Even along that road there are many fine 
goers, albeit in the summer they run 40 to 50 miles a-day. 
Horses in Norway are not worked under four years old, 
hence most of them are goodlegged and surefooted, if want- 
ing in other respects. Few get any corn, and indeed they 
are often brought in straight from the fell and yoked to a 
karjol or cart. With this they jog along over hill and dale, 
willingly doing six or seven miles an hour, or, if the road is 
very level, ten. But the constant succession of hills, many 
of them very long, prevent one's going the speed such ponies 
would accomplish on a flat. A good pony costs generally 
from 10/. to 15/., but prices of course are uncertain, and one 
of the best I ever drove had been bought for about 2/. She 
was fourteen years old when I saw her ; but that is nothing 
in the way of antiquity — often you get one a veteran of 
twenty, and still good. During six summers in Norway I 
have driven many score, and I never saw one exhibit tem- 
per, nor have I ever had one down. There are horse fairs 



14 



How to See Norway. 



during the summer at Throndhjem ; also one close to Hol- 
men, a station in Gudbrandsdalen, and perhaps in other parts 
of the country. 

English tourists are acquiring an unenviable notoriety 
among the people for furious driving. Norwegians are ex- 
ceedingly fond of their horses, which are brought up from 
6 foalhood ' in friendship (if I may so term it) with the family 
to whom they belong, and therefore have no fear of man, 
and are generally unused to the whip. You rarely see 
a Norwegian flog his horse. He urges it forward with a 
peculiar kissing sound of the mouth, and checks or stops it 
— even at full trot down hill — not by tugging at the reins, 
which would be useless with many ponies, owing to their 
having hard mouths, but by a singular kind of ' bur-r-r ! ' 
made by vibrating the lips. In fact, if you wish to know 
what kindness versus brutality will do in the rearing of 
horses, go to Norway. 1 I would earnestly recommend those 
who travel by karjol to humour the feelings of a nation in 
this respect ; in short, to drive the horses as if they were 
their own property. Every pony has his pace, and you 
seldom gain a quarter of an hour on the seven or ten mile 
stage, whether you let him go that pace or distress him (and 
his owner) by pushing him beyond it. I have seen young 
Englishmen tear along as if they were tired of life and did 
not mind how soon they lost it by a good smash. It is true 
the ponies are celebrated for rattling fast down hill, but 
there is a limit to the speed, or you are liable to come to 
grief j and it ought also to be borne in mind that for any 
damage to the horse, resulting from carelessness or over- 
driving, the traveller is responsible and may be compelled 
to pay. Norwegians are never in a hurry; and persons sub- 

1 Those of my readers who, like myself, take an interest in the 
subject, will be glad to learn that there exists in Christiania a society 
for the prevention of cruelty to animals, called Foreningeit til Dyrenes 
Beskyttelse. It would be well if more of its agents were appointed to 
watch the posting along the main roads, e.g. that from Christiania to 
Throndhjem. 



Advice not to be follozved. 



ject to that state of mind will be in misery the whole way — 
the troubles they endure not creating the slightest sympathy 
in the lookers-on. You have to wait for horses, boatmen, 
the steamer, and frequently for something to eat. 

When driving, it is prudent to keep an eye on the harness, 
always inspecting it at every change. I have had a rein 
come loose from the bit whilst trotting down hill with a 
weak pony and a heavy cart. I stopped the little animal 
by making the usual 6 bur-r-r ! ' There are no traces, the 
collar being attached to the shafts by iron loops projecting 
from it, which pass through slots in the latter near the points. 
Pegs are put through the loops (outside the shafts) to secure 
them, and these often shake out on the road, if carelessly 
fixed. 



Were I disposed to offer anyone about to start for Nor- 
way the worst possible advice — that most calculated to ren- 
der his life a burden to him from the beginning to the end 
of his tour, it would be this — i. Join a large party. 2. Be 
sure to take plenty of luggage, including above all things a 
huge box of English provisions ; a soldier's rifle, in case you 
should meet a bear, and a couple of salmon-rods, in order 
that you may be prepared for the Alten, or any other good 
stream your fancy may bid you try. 3. Choose some well- 
advertised route, thronged with travellers ; and determine to 
6 do it ' for what it cost Smith or Brown last year, even to a 
skilling, and in the same number of days. 4. Order station- 
masters, and others in attendance, about as you would ser- 
vants in dear Old England ; and if they fail to obey you, or 
appear wilfully dull at comprehending your Norsk, take the 
law into your own hands and punish them. 5. Always 
drive as fast as the horse will go — you get over your tour 
so much quicker by that means — and never dream of dis- 
mounting before the steepest hill. You pay 3^. a mile for 
the animal, so need not listen to any remonstrance on the 



How to See Norway. 



part of the boy. If you understand his gibberish about 
cruelty, tired horse, danger, and such-like trifles, tell him 
you know how to drive better than he does, because you are 
i an Englishman.' 

One word more. Publish your experiences of Norway on 
your return, simply as a warning to future travellers. 



General Aspect of the Country. 



1/ 



CHAPTER II. 

General Aspect of the Country — Trees, most common— Construction 
of Country-houses— Gaards — Food — Pauper Regulations — Cultiva- 
tion of Land — Irrigation — Sceter, or Summer Cheese-farms — Cattle 
— Natural Politeness and Good Feeling characteristic of the Nor- 
wegians — Division of the Country into Amter — Public- Functionaries 
— Army — Church System — Landhandler — National Character — 
Scarcity of Blackguards — Educational System — School Books, and 
what Children are taught — Birthplace of English Nursery Tales — 
Field Sports — Ptarmigan (Ryper) and other Birds — Game Laws — 
Wild Reindeer — Beasts of Prey — Bears — Fruit {note) — Salmon- 
fishing — Trout-fishing — Singing Birds, scarcity of. 

There are few towns inland, and you travel hundreds of 
miles without passing through what may be called a village. 
The mass of the population, which altogether is but half 
that of London, consists of either farmers or people con- 
nected with fishing. They live in isolated dwellings dotted 
along the main valleys, or bordering a fjord. Here and 
there a group of two or three farms may be seen. The 
country generally is wooded (where the slope is not too 
steep) to a considerable height, save about farm-houses, 
where there is more or. less cultivated land. Spruce-fir is 
the reigning tree in the south, although beech, oak, birch, 
and other kinds, are locally common. Above Lillehammer, 
as you journey northward, this gives place to Scotch fir 
(Furutrce), which is, perhaps, the prevailing timber over the 
larger part of Norway. Spruce, however, appears again in 
several localities north of the Dovrefjeld, and is common in 
Valders, on the road from Christiama to Bergen, Far up 
in the north there is little growth but birch and alder ; 

c 



I S How to See Norway. 

neither do you find any but the latter trees in the high 
glens throughout the land. Birch, alder, and aspen are cut 
during the summer, made up into faggots, and dried in the 
sun. These are given to cattle in winter, which eat the 
leaves, thereby economising the consumption of hay. The 
higher valleys for the most part remain uncultivated, and 
merely furnish pasturage for cattle. The majority of them 
are uninhabited (save in summer), and any road through 
them is a mere track. 

The houses all over Norway (except in the large towns) 
are built of logs. Wood is found cheaper and easier to 
work than stone. Besides, stone walls require mortar, and 
the country contains little limestone ; indeed, I have seen 
none. The fir-baulks, forming the walls of a house, are laid 
horizontally, piled one upon another, the interstices being 
caulked with moss, and are notched into those forming a 
contiguous side at the angle. The roof is covered with sod 
in the poorer dwellings and out-houses, and often you see a 
tree shooting up from the housetop ; but the better class 
of houses have tiles or slate on the roof, excellent slate 
being found in some districts. I have noticed a remarkable 
formation of it on the Christiania and Throndhjem road. 
Most houses are two-storied, and internally fitted up plain. 
Of course the style varies with the wealth and taste of the 
inhabitants, but you seldom see anything like the luxury 
found in an ordinary English gentleman's home. 

A Gaard, or farm establishment, consists of so many 
detached buildings that, viewed from a distance, it has the 
appearance of a village. The living-house, stables, cow 
house, houses for sheep and goats during the winter, barns 
and store-room,' form its component parts. But, besides 
these, there are lodging for dependents, cottages occupied 
by tenants, and sometimes a schoolroom for children of the 
neighbourhood — all included in the gaard. 

The Norwegians, as a nation, live on very simple food. 
Among the peasantry, who are a wonderfully healthy race — 



Food — Pauper Regulations, &e. 



19 



equal, if not superior, to the English in stature — porridge 
(Grod), 1 sour milk, and Fladbrod, which resembles our oat- 
cake, make up the staff of life. Numerous as cows and 
sheep are, fresh meat is, in country places, a treat, as 
people only kill in the autumn, and then most of the 
carcass is salted and dried, forming what is termed Spege- 
kjod (cured meat), and is eaten without further cookery. 
The mutton done in this way tastes like mutton ham, hard 
as leather, but not unpalatable ; indeed, I rather like it 
when out on the fells. Of course in the towns living is on 
a better scale ; so also at the large stations, where you 
often get salmon and trout. Good coffee is common, even 
in the dirtiest hovel ; so are eggs. 

Out of the beaten track, there are naturally few stations 
or public accommodation of any sort. By beaten track, I 
mean a post-road or steamer route along a fjord. When 
travelling in such places, the custom is to ask for lodging at 
the best-looking farm. The people give you what they 
have, and, except the house belongs to a gentleman, you 
pay a trifle when you go away; two marks are generally 
ample, should your hosts refuse to name a charge. 

Except during a famine arising from failure of crops, &c, 
great wealth and extreme poverty are alike uncommon 
among the peasant class. There are, however, a consider- 
able number of the population who, from age or other 
causes, require support — and instead of being incarcerated 
in workhouses, these poor people are told off to the dif- 
ferent farms, there to be fostered at the expense of the 
owners of the soil. The ' family pauper,' often a very old. 
man, with long white hair, is sometimes a conspicuous 
feature in the domestic economy of a gaard. 

The quantity of land under cultivation is seldom great. 
Some farms may have forty acres, but commonly they have 
less; a patch of potatoes, and an acre or two of barley, 

1 Generally made of barley or ryemeal ; sometimes, but less com- 
monly, of oatmeal. 

c 2 



20 



How to See Norway. 



being frequently all that is planted about a gaard. Through- 
out the western half of Norway, barley is the commonest 
grain, 1 and next to that rye. Other districts produce oats ; 
but wheat is comparatively little grown. The Norwegians 
are not good husbandmen, although government sends agri- 
cultural instructors through different parts of the country 
every year. Each instructor (or Agernomer) takes a certain 
district, and visits all the farms in it in succession. He 
himself receives his education in a school of farming, of 
which there are several. The shallowness of the soil over 
a great part of the country is an obstacle to good crops ; 
and then there is a want of capital to work with. A system 
of irrigation, which might be applied in other countries, 
wherever there is a running stream above a slope, is the 
following. Water is connected from a rill or burn, some- 
times a distance of two miles, in a line of troughs formed 
of pine trunks grooved out. These are placed with a slight 
incline, the thin end of one overlapping the thick end of 
the next below ; the whole being supported on props or 
projecting crags, and thus carried along the mountain side 
above the fields. The stream can be discharged at any 
point, or diverted into another similar channel. Where it 
is wanted during the long periods of dry weather which 
often occur, it is allowed to escape into a hole, and from 
this is pitched, with a wooden scoop, over the crop below. 
After tossing a sufficiency over the land within reach, 
another pool farther on is dug, the stream led into it 
(either from another part of the trough or by a gutter), and 
the operation repeated. 

The principal part of a man's property lies in pasture 
land and wood; and cutting and securing the scanty hay, 
even from every insignificant green strip, perilously situated 
high up among the crags, is the grand business of the 
summer, at which everyone assists. It often requires all 
their energies to procure fodder enough for that dreary 
1 It is cultivated to some small extent as far north as Tromsb. 



Farming — Sceter, &c. 



21 



winter time when the cattle are all housed and the country 
is under snow. The mode of haymaking is curious. A kind 
of tall railing, formed of upright posts, to which four or five 
cross-pieces are lashed with birch twig — and I may remark 
they use birch in a hundred cases where we should employ 
rope — is erected in the field, or on the fell, and they dry 
the grass by hanging it over and packing it between the 
rail. A large hayfield contains several such constructions, 
looking like so many green screens. Again, corn is never 
built into what we call stooks. Generally the sheaves are 
placed one above another, with a tall upright pole passed 
through the whole. Possibly, there may be some advan- 
tages in these systems, as both hay and corn have good 
ventilation, and are out of the reach of flood. 

In addition to land in the valley, every gaard has a large 
tract of mountain pasture, with a cheese-making establish- 
ment on it, called a Sceter. The cows and goats are driven 
to this in summer, and remain there two or three months, 
tended by people (chiefly girls) from the valley farm. The 
saeter buildings are one-storied huts, each containing two 
rooms. The outer apartment, which is fitted up with a 
hearth, a table, and a coarse bed, is the living-room ; the 
inner one is the dairy, containing the cheeses and im- 
plements used in their manufacture. A saeter is fre- 
quently two or three Norwegian miles from its gaard. Often 
several, belonging to different proprietors, form a group in 
a mountain hollow ; sometimes you see them by the shore 
of a tarn.. Of the various kinds of cheese made, one is 
gammel Ost The name signifies ' old cheese.' A good 
one reminds one of Stilton in the very last stage of decay. 
Myse Osf, another kind, is made from goats' milk, and has 
a sweetish flavour. It is the colour of Windsor soap, and 
nearly the shape of a brick. 

Cattle run very small, seldom bigger than our black 
Scotch, but of a different breed ; the land, it is said, not 
yielding grass enough for animals of a larger growth. Sheep 
also are diminutive; a man might easily carry two in his arms. 



22 



How to See Norway. 



After being milked of a morning at the sseter, the cows 
graze about on the fell. Often they are driven to a distant 
part of it, and then left to take care of themselves. In some 
districts, at least, they return towards evening alone. I 
once saw thirty cows, unaccompanied by either boy or dog, 
wending their way to Bcevertun saeter on the Sognefjeld. 
They had been by themselves all the day, and were then 
coming home to be milked. They travelled at least seven 
English miles through a craggy glen, following each other 
in a string ; and in one place I saw them cross a brawling 
glacier river, when the water was up to their shoulders. 

I would here observe, for the benefit of those of my 
readers who desire to learn more about Norwegian farming, 
that no work contains a better account of it than that by 
Mr. Laing. Laing's 6 Residence in Norway/ describes, also, 
the social and political institutions ; it gives his experience 
of life among the people, and is the best book of the kind I 
have read. 

At stations in the less frequented parts of Norway, the 
traveller is treated rather as a guest than as a lodger. He 
is expected to join the family circle, especially at meals, 
and may often meet very friendly society, supposing him to 
speak a little Norsk. The young ladies are often musical, 
and now and then understand English. There is nothing 
of the loneliness a stranger feels at an English country hotel. 
The Norwegians are a ceremonious people in matters of 
politeness ; so are the Swedes, even to a greater extent, 
whilst we English are perhaps nationally the reverse, and 
no doubt frequently appear guilty of impoliteness where 
none is intended, owing to our ignorance of their customs 
and etiquette. ' Thus, Norwegians are most scrupulous 
about taking off the hat; they doff it in saluting, and 
always when they enter a house or shop ; and should you 
meet a man on the road, he generally says, ' God Dag } 
('good day') or 1 Godt tnodt* ('well met'), and stops to 
have a chat. At your departure from an inn, the host (and 



Public Functionaries — A rmy. 



23 



all his family sometimes) wish you a ' lykkelig Reise'' 1 (■ happy 
journey') ; and should you return by water, you are greeted 
on the shore with 'velkommen i Land 1 ('welcome to land !'). 
Again, after the simplest repast everyone replaces his chair, 
and all in succession shake hands with the hostess, saying, 
* Tak for Maden 7 (' thanks for the meal '). She generally 
answers, 6 Vel bekomrnej and there is a shaking, or rather 
squeezing, of hands all round. These, and many other 
observances, trifling as they appear, show, in my opinion, 
the natural politeness and good feeling characteristic of the 
nation. 

Norway is divided into twenty Amier, each under an Amt- 
niand, who corresponds in position to our lord-lieutenant, 
except that he is of ten times the use. The Amtmand 
actually governs a portion of the country, being immediately 
under the king. Inferior to him in rank are two classes of 
civil functionaries, the Foged and the Sorenskriver. There 
are a great number of each, appointed to certain districts. 
The Sorenskriver is a district judge, civil and criminal com- 
bined. He is a paid officer — amateur justice in the shape 
of country magistrates being unknown. The execution of 
the law devolves upon the Foged, who may be likened to 
a sheriff. Next to these come the Lehnsmcend, of whom 
every parish contains one or more. These act as police, 
auctioneers, and have a variety of duties besides. 

The army, at least the greater portion of it (exclusive of 
artillery), is a kind of militia. Like as in our militia, the 
men serve only during a portion of the year; the number 
of weeks per annum depending on length of service ; being 
greatest for recruits. With few exceptions, all young men 
are bound to serve. Each corps is recruited from a par- 
ticular district, where the captain resides, who receives pay 
from government all the year round, and a gaard to live in. 
The men are paid only during the time they are out for 
drill. 

A Norwegian parish (Prcestegjeld) is frequently very large 



24 



How to See Norway. 



in area; generally containing, besides the parish church (near 
which is the Prcestegaard, or 6 manse '), one or more other 
churches (Annex Kirke), often twelve or fourteen English 
miles apart, and the clergyman gives a Sunday to each in 
turn. Often, however, the weather prevents his attendance 
at an annex, the journey to which may be several miles 
over a stormy sea. 

There being hardly any country towns, articles of daily 
use are supplied by general dealers, called Landhandler 
(country dealers), who are often the leading people in a 
place. Many of them are rather superior in education to 
the farmers around. Most of the large stations have a 
Landhandelri, or shop of this kind. 

Few people are without employment, either in farming or 
fishing ; and, with the exception of the government officials, 
clergy, officers of the army, and country merchants, society 
consists of but one class, namely, that of the Bonde y or 
peasant. Of course there are different grades of it, from 
the rich proprietor to the labourer on his estate ; but class 
feeling, which to the extent we carry it in England becomes 
almost a social curse, is in Norway much less severe. 
There is a national pride, free from arrogance, among the 
natives which gives them a manliness of character, so to 
speak, superior to that possessed by any other nation. 
They have all our best qualities and few of our worst. To 
imagine the peasantry less civilised than our own is a mis- 
take. They may not be so advanced in knowledge of farm- 
ing as those in England, but in general character and 
education they excel them. 

Love of drink is always said to be the Normand's bane ; 
however, judging from what I have seen, there exists less 
drunkenness among them than we find in the North of 
England. The sale of spirits, of which those made from 
potatoes and corn are most common, is now only allowed 
in the towns at a very few privileged country shops, and on 
board steamboats. The latter, unfortunately, act as floating 



National Character — Educational System. 2 5 

taverns to a great extent, having the privilege of selling 
brandy, &c, at their numerous stopping places along the 
coast. 

Norwegian honesty is proverbial; and as to highway 
robbery, it is hardly known. Everyone acquainted with 
Norway will agree with me that it is a safer country to 
travel in than our own. There appears to be a general 
absence of that ruffianism among the working class which 
forms so disagreeable an element in society elsewhere. I 
cannot remember meeting half a dozen blackguards during 
six summer tours. Besides all this — and it is one of Nor- 
way's greatest charms — there is an English-like atmosphere 
of freedom, if I may be allowed the expression, which one 
never breathes in Germany or France. 

That little crime exists may be partly owing to the natural 
goodness of the people, but there is another reason for it — 
at least in my opinion — and that is education. Every child 
learns to read and write. Valleys, where neither church 
nor roads are found, have each a schoolmaster during 
several months in the year. Where the valley is too long 
for all the children to attend one school, it is portioned out 
into two or more districts, and the teacher devotes a certain 
number of weeks to each in succession. In many neigh- 
bourhoods there is no regular school-house, and the in- 
struction has to be carried on at a gaard. I ought to 
mention, that the whole country is Lutheran, with (barring 
a few Quakers) hardly any dissent. 1 In that religion con- 
firmation is much more rigidly enforced than it is in the 
English Church; many situations in life requiring that a 
candidate for them shall have been confirmed. Now, the 
clergy will not perform the ceremony until a child can read, 
write, cipher, and understand its catechism. Schooling is 
therefore almost compulsory. The cost of it is defrayed by 

1 Since this remark was first printed (in the ' Alpine Journal'), I 
have heard my statement regarding dissent contradicted. I still think 
the amount trifling, compared to what we have in England. 



26 



How to See Norway. 



the community at large, and a man pays the same whether 
he has six children or none. The tax is, however, a small 
one. 

Most peasant children are taught a little history and 
every-day science, in addition to the subjects I have named. 
The schools have the most admirable books on general 
knowledge I ever saw, far better than those used in English 
parish schools. One, quite worth reading by all, is the 
( Lczsebog for Folkeskolen og Folkehj emmet] i.e. 4 Reading- 
book for the People's School and Home.' It is sold in 
town and country, cheap and strongly bound. The con- 
tents, which at the beginning of the book are easy reading 
and suitable for a child, become more difficult by degrees, 
and embrace a short history of Norway and other countries, 
Church and Bible history, the elements of natural science, 
and much more. Another capital school volume is the 
' Lczsebog i Naturlceren for den Norske Almite? This con- 
tains natural history, botany, &c, with their applications to 
every-day life. Of course the subjects are merely sketched, 
but the amount of information, taken altogether, is im- 
mense. 

Scandinavia is the birthplace of half our nursery tales, 
and there are numerous collections of wonderful stories 
about giants and evil-disposed sorcerers (Tro/de) ; 6 Norske 
Folke-Eventyr] written by Asbjornsen and Moe, being one 
of the most complete. 

So many Englishmen flock every summer to Norway for 
the sole purpose of sport, that a few words on that subject 
may not be out of place. As a general rule, game is 
much less plentiful than many persons suppose who have 
never visited Norway. The game generally met with in 
greatest abundance are Fyfier, and there are two varieties of 
them — Dalryper, a wood bird, and Fjeldryfier, found on the 
mountains. The latter is the Scotch ptarmigan, and is com- 
mon over the whole land. The peasantry go after these birds 
in mid-winter, but, being unfurnished with dogs, seldom bring 



Field Sports. 



27 



home many brace. Latterly our countrymen have taken to 
this sport, and some few of them, who rent ground, with con- 
siderable success. Nothing can be done without dogs, and 
these must be brought from England. It has often been a 
question whether our red grouse inhabits Norway. I have 
never seen one myself, and most sportsmen deny their 
existence ; nevertheless, one or two gentlemen have assured 
me this species has been shot. 'Black game are common 
on the wooded slopes ; capercalze only in certain parts of 
the country. Woodcocks, although in summer they must 
be numerous, seem little known to the inhabitants. Vald- 
sneppe, or more properly Rugde^ is the Norwegian name for 
this bird. I have seen one now and then fly over me 
about dusk. Snipe and wild ducks may be plentiful in 
certain localities; hares are uncommon. In time, it is 
much to be feared, the best ground will be let in the shape 
of moors ; as yet, I am happy to say, this is rarely the case — ■ 
men shoot on any mountain they like. No certificates are 
required, but there are fines for killing game out of season. 
Ptarmigan, black game, capercalze, &c, are not permitted 
to be shot before the 15th of August. 

Wild reindeer are found on many of the large mountain 
plateaux. They may be said to be rare, at least to all in- 
tents and purposes, owing to the immense extent of ground 
they range over, seldom remaining long in one place. I 
have been often in neighbourhoods celebrated as the resort 
of deer, but never found a trace of one, save some cast 
antlers among the stones. They are said to be on the in- 
crease. Numbers of English sportsmen try deer-stalking 
every year, but few, I believe, with even moderate success. 
The season begins on the 1st of August. In order to follow 
the sport, a man must be well 6 rigged out/ understand the 
country, and be prepared to live on the fjeld. He may 
choose a saeter for his habitation, or he may have a tent. 
The mountains of Gudbrandsdalen, the Sognefjeld, and parts 
about Lorn, are especially famous for reindeer. Red deer, 



28 



How to See Norway, 



or an animal resembling them, inhabit some of the islands 
along the coast, and elk are met with in the forests of the 
south. 

Bears, wolves, lynxes, and other beasts of prey, are gradu- 
ally becoming extinct ; a premium of 5 specie daler being 
awarded for every one destroyed. Smaller sums are paid 
for every eagle and hawk. Bears, however, are still denizens 
of the forest-clothed precipice in the wilder regions, and 
numbers of cows fall victims to these huge brown monsters 
during the autumn. At the same time, their wandering 
habits, their shyness, and the difficulty of following them 
over the crags, render any chaitce pursuit of them nearly 
hopeless. One might spend years without a shot. Nor- 
wegians living in the neighbourhood where Bruin has 
slaughtered a cow go in a body to look for him, and often 
avenge their loss. No one is afraid of bears in Norway ; 
women and children pass fearlessly through woods where it 
is always possible they may come across one ; for these 
animals, when not molested, very rarely attack. Berries 1 
(especially bilberries), which grow in the greatest luxuriance, 
carpeting both forest and moor, form the normal food of 

1 Norway is a great country for the hardier kinds of fruit, as apples, 
cherries, currants, and raspberries. Of wild berries, you find straw- 
berries, cranberries, bilberries, and many other varieties, growing in 
profusion, often singularly intermixed, over crag and moor. Most of 
them are edible ; one, the Molteb&r (Rvibus chamasmorus), being capital 
with cream. This, which I never saw in Scotland, grows on high 
marshes, and is shaped somewhat like a raspberry, only of an orange 
hue. The leaf resembles that of a geranium, and the flower, white 
with a yellow centre, is seldom more than six or eight inches above the 
ground. * 



* I have often seen and eaten the fruit — yellowish, with fewer and 
larger lobes than those of the raspberry, flavour rather sickly, and not 
particularly pleasant without cream — in the Mar Mountains, e.g. on 
the west side of Glen Calater. The plant is not uncommon on my 
own land in Strathdearn (Findhorn district), but I have never seen 
fruit there. It is called 4 Averil,' or something like that, in Braemar. 
—Note by the Editor of the 6 Alpine Journal? 



Fishing. 



29 



bears during a great part of the year. They pass the winter 
months without eating, i.e. from the beginning of November 
until the following April. During this time they live in 
holes, often choosing one under the root of a tree, which 
they never leave ; and, what is most singular, the female, 
during this period, brings forth her young (generally two or 
three in number). 

Salmon-fishing, the sport par excellence of our country- 
men, is naturally confined to certain rivers \ but these are 
numerous, every fjord being fed by at least one. They 
differ greatly in the quantity of fish, and the same stream is 
never two seasons alike in this respect. I believe the ma- 
jority of them are overrated, and that most men who go to 
Norway for the first time come back disappointed with the 
fishing. I am only speaking from hearsay, not being a 
fisherman myself. Neither does the remark apply to rivers 
such as the Alten, where the yearly take is immense. Where- 
ever there are salmon, you will find every pool let, and often 
underlet — many pieces of river being held on leases of 
twenty years. The standing nets, belonging by right to 
various families whose property borders the shore about the 
part where the river enters the fjord, take a very large 
number of fish that would otherwise come up, and thereby 
reduce the chance of rod-fishing in the pools. When Norway 
first became known, foreigners were allowed to fish wherever 
they thought fit, almost scotfree. Now it is very different ; 
prices range up to 100/. and 200/. a year, and the expense 
of the Alien (including purchasing off the nets), is a great 
deal more. It therefore never answers to journey to Norway 
merely on the chance of getting salmon-fishing; you must 
secure a stream beforehand, or, go where you will, the pools 
are let. 

Now, trout is usually spurned by salmon takers, and there- 
fore trout -fishing may be had. There are many good 
streams (where salmon are not found), and the people are 
generally good-natured enough to let the stranger fish them. 



30 



How to See Norway. 



The river above Lillehammer contains trout upwards of 
1 8 lbs. weight, which are taken with a net; and many of the 
tarns (or mountain lakes) are full of big trout. It comes 
from what I have said, that a tourist who likes fishing ought 
to bring a trout, but not a salmon rod. Should he be in- 
vited to fish salmon, his friend will lend him a rod. 

Barring fieldfares (in the summer), magpies, and grey- 
backed crows, the paucity of birds seen during a walk in 
Norway is remarkable ; of singing birds there appears to 
be almost a dearth. 



Scenery of Norway. 



31 



CHAPTER III. 

Scenery of Norway compared with that of Switzerland- — Turistforen- 
mgen (note) — Localities most remarkable for grandeur of Scenery 
— Triangular Area in which most of the best Scenery is found — The 
Arctic Coast — Its Population — Mirage and other Atmospheric Phe- 
nomena — Lofoten Islands — Lapps and their Reindeer — Quains — 
Midnight Sun. 

And now to come to Norwegian scenery. 1 Everyone has 
his own idea of what constitutes beauty or grandeur ; and 
on a view that pleases one, another would scarcely bestow 
a glance. In a country so large, scenery of all kinds may 
be found, but it is in gorges, where Nature looks her sternest, 
that Norway may be said to excel. Added to this, there is 
the scenery along the Arctic coast, which is of a different 
character altogether; and also particular objects (rather 
than general views) — for example, the Voringfos, worth going 
hundreds of miles to visit. 

It may be asked, ' Is the country as fine as Switzerland ? ' 
Well, one can hardly compare the two. If grandeur be pro- 

1 There is a society in Christiania called Den Norske Turistfore7iing, 
which deserves the thanks of English travellers — especially of those 
who are mountaineers. Mr. Thomas J. Heftye, the well-known 
banker, is president, and a large number of the principal gentlemen in 
Norway, with the king and other members of the royal family at 
their head, members. In many respects the society resembles our own 
Alpine Club, and it publishes an interesting little volume every year, 
giving an account of ascents, new routes, &c. But besides this, it has 
another object, viz. the erection of sleeping-huts on the mountains a 
day's journey from any house, and the improvement of footpaths 
leading to celebrated views, &c. For more detailed information re- 
specting it, I would refer the traveller to Mr. Bennet, of Christiania. 
N.B. — The society admits foreigners as members. 



32 



How to See Norway. 



portioned to mere height alone, Switzerland must rank first, 
the loftiest mountain in Norway being under 9,000 ft. The 
scenery can cope with the Swiss only in the element of form, 
the precipices being generally bolder ; and in charming com- 
binations of mountain, wood, and water, Norway can vie 
with any land. Vertical cliffs of 2,000 ft. or more are rare in 
most countries, while in Norway such are common. This is 
probably owing to the hardness of the rocks, a very large 
portion of them being gneiss, or closely allied to that stone. 
The remark one author makes of there being a tameness of 
skyline, i.e. an absence of peaks in the upper portion of a 
chain, although true of a great part of Norway, is not with- 
out exceptions. Few ranges in Switzerland can surpass the 
Horungtindcr in boldness of form ; neither are the mountains 
within the Arctic circle subject to this defect. In some 
respects the country resembles the west part of Scotland, 
especially in the configuration of coast, the Fjorde being 
what we should term friths or sea lochs ; but here every- 
thing is on a grander scale. Glencoe is tame compared to 
J?omsdal, nor can Loch Duich compete with Geira7tger- 
fjorden. 

The best scenery in Norway is found in patches here and 
there. These are, in many cases, separated (especially to 
travellers who follow the road) by intervals comparatively 
tame. Most of the grand valleys lie west of Gudbrandsdaleit. 
If you take a map and draw lines from Lorn, (nearly in the 
centre of the country) to Bergen and Molde, the space en- 
closed by these lines and the coast will be found to contain 
most of the finest glens. There are, nevertheless, other 
districts not included in this triangle worth visiting, as Thele- 
marken, Har danger , Lysefjorden, and the scenery along the 
Arctic coast. 

For the greater portion of its extent, the Norwegian coast 
is protected from the fury of the ocean by a fringe of islands, 
which act as breakwaters, especially when they form a close 
chain. There are myriads of these islands, of all sizes, from 



The A rctic Coast. 



33 



a mere projecting reef to territories larger than the Isle of 
Man. Some have a few inhabitants along the coast, but the 
majority are barren or only used for pasturage. The voyage 
from Throndhjem to Hammerfest in weekly mail steamers — 
most of them comfortable boats, well managed in every 
respect — usually lasts six days, the grandeur of the coast 
scenery fairly commencing towards the evening (or night) of 
the second. For a description of the whole route see Chap. 
VI. ; here space permits me only to glance at some of its 
leading features. One island, Torghatten (see Chap. V.), is 
perforated by a natural tunnel, which from the sea appears 
like a bright loophole in a dome of rock. As you approach 
the Arctic circle, the mountains, hitherto feeble in outline, 
terminate in steep, torn peaks, and the islands become 
sterner in character — many of them are wild precipices rising 
abruptly from the waves. The bold figure of the £ Hestmand' 
(or ' Horseman/ from its resemblance to a mounted knight) 
is an island nearly on the Arctic circle, which latitude you 
cross during the night following the second day. 

The population in the far north is nearly confined to 
fishermen living on the coast. Very little cultivation is 
seen, and there are no roads— all communication being by 
boat. The interior of the country appears to be an unin- 
habited tract of mountain, glacier, and lake; ranges of 
snowy peaks crown the distant horizon. The temperature 
along the Arctic coast, owing to the influence of the Gulf- 
stream, is considerably milder than in many other parts 
of the world as far north ; and there is a general abundance 
of vegetation, comprising grass, berries, juniper, &c. where 
the rocks are clothed with soil. After leaving Throndhjem 
but little forest is observable from the steamer ; and as you 
proceed the quantity diminishes until there is scarcely a tree 
to be seen. 

Mirage in these latitudes produces remarkable effects. 
Distant islands appear as if floating above the horizon and 
doubled', as you approach them the lower half begins to dip, 

D 



34 



Hozv tu See Norway. 



and gradually to vanish in the sea. In fine weather nothing 
can be more splendid than the gradation of tints which 
colour the atmosphere about sunrise and sunset; and in the 
extreme north during winter the aurora borealis must be 
superb. It is said there that, sometimes, a crackling sound, 
produced by electric action, accompanies the show (?). 

Soon after leaving the little town of Bodd (on the third 
day), the steamer crosses an open sea, conventionally called 
the Vestfjord, to the Lofoten islands. This most remarkable 
group, appearing from a distance like one continuous land, 
or, as Murray says, 'a row of shark's teeth,' is a very 
labyrinth of mountain and sea, the tortuous passages between 
the islands being in many places mere rivers in breadth. 
Conceive a block of high land capped by peaks of the 
wildest form, and the whole submerged to above the plateau, 
and you have an idea of the scene. The cliffs generally rise 
precipitously (void of strand or beach) from the wave. They 
are not altogether barren ; herbage and often scraggy birch 
grow in streaks among the crags. The highest point is 
said to be Vaagekallen (by station Henningsvcer), of which I 
have given a very rough sketch. Svolvcer is one of the 
most picturesque stopping places in the group. I spent a 
week there in 1858 at the house of a very pleasant family. 
The father was a large landhandler, and one of his daughters 
a musical genius. This . young lady had composed a very 
pretty waltz for the guitar. The Lofotender are the seat of 
the cod fishery in February and March, and the population 
(confined. to the coasts) are all connected with it, and many 
of them well to do. The Mcelstrom, about which so much 
fiction has been penned, lies between two little ber or 
islands, at the south end of the chain. Here, the fact is, 
the tide during a high wind produces a sea of broken water, 
extremely dangerous for small craft. The Storstrom (near 
Bo do) resembles it, and is more dangerous, skippers say. 

After quitting the Lofotender, the coast views become less 
grand, and a tourist pressed for time might relinquish his 



Lapps. 35 

progress farther north. Tromsd, a town on an island, is a 
day beyond, but only interesting on account of the Lapps. 

The Lapps (probably the remnant of some Asiatic race) 
form a small and generally nomadic sprinkling of humanity 




VAAGEKALLEN — LOFOTEN ISLANDS. (SKETCHED BY J. R. CAMPBELL. ) 



in the far north of Norway and Sweden. They are low in 
stature, and their physiognomy, language, mode of life, as 
well as their dress, proclaim them a nation most distinct in 

D 2 



36 



Hozv to See Norway. 



blood from the present masters of the soil. Some of the 
young women are not bad looking. The last time I visited 
an encampment a rather pretty little Lapp wife brought out 
her baby for my inspection. It was a fresh healthy child as 
one would wish to see. The Lapp is simply a herdsman, 
reindeer constituting his flock; in fact, his whole property 
consists of these animals, which, in one way or other, supply 
nearly all his simple wants. During life the deer serves 
him as horse and cow, and after death he eats the flesh and 
makes clothing of the skin. As the reindeer are instinc- 
tively migratory, the Lapp is compelled to be so too. 1 The 
deer pass the long winter in the interior, and the hot weather 
near the sea. I cannot account for this fact, further than by 
supposing climate may be one cause ; in summer it is coolest 
by the seashore ; there are also fewer flies and mosquitoes 
— terrible enemies to the deer. It is said that the same 
herd, and, consequently, also their owners, always return to 
the same ground they have grazed on before. In some 
cases they cross over to an island, where the channel is 
narrow enough for them to swim, the Lapps following in 
boats. 

On the mainland, opposite Tromsd, there are Lapps every 
summer for about two months. When I visited the spot in 
1858, there were four families — the same that came every yean 
Men and women, children and dogs, all lived in two beehive- 
shaped huts, called Gammas, which stood together by the side 
of a stream in a valley wooded with birch. They were both 
of a pattern, and the largest might be 18 feet wide inside, 
and 8 feet high. It was formed of a framework of arched 
birch stems with horizontal pieces at different heights all 
round, and shorter branches fitted in between ; the exterior 
was covered with sods, birch bark, and more branches of 

1 Norwegians term a Lapp who spends his life with jhis deer a Land- 
fin or Fjeldfin ; if, not being connected with any herd, he settles in a 
cottage by the sea, and turns fisherman, as is frequently the case, he 
then becomes what is called a S'6ft?i. 



Lapps and their Reindeer. 



37 



that tree. A door framed into the side; a few stones for a 
hearth in the ' centre ; and a hole in the top — serving as 
chimney and window combined — completed the building. 
They had an iron pot suspended over the fire, in which 
reindeer bones were simmering ; it was the evening meal. 
This iron pot, a few wooden bowls, a Staffordshire tea-cup, 
some bladders full of deer's milk and muffin-shaped cheeses 
made from it, were about all the hut contained — barring the 
inmates. Of these some spoke a little Norsk. One old 
woman was sewing shoes, or rather those deerskin bags in 
which Lapps encase their feet ; while several boys and dogs 
were reposing under the wall. On another occasion I saw 
a woman making fladbrod. The reindeer's milk tastes 
nearly like cow's cream, and the cheeses are not un- 
palatable. They are reckoned excellent as lubricants for 
chilblains and frostbites. 

The deer graze during the day, Lapp boys attending them; 
and as six o'clock in the evening approaches, the boys, 
assisted by small colley dogs, drive them in to milk. For this 
purpose there are two circular enclosures, each constructed 
of a rampart of birch stakes and boughs. Into these the 
deer are driven, and the openings are closed when all are 
inside. A boy, armed with a rope, both ends of which he 
holds, now singles out a doe, and swinging it somewhat 
like a lasso, catches her at once by her horns. The animal 
often starts back, and then plunges, but, notwithstanding 
this, the Lapp retains his hold. Eventually she is brought 
to a stump and secured to it, a hitch being first made round 
her muzzle with the rope. A woman then goes up and 
milks her. The quantity of milk is very small for the size 
of the beast. 

The Lapps only travel in sledges when snow is on the 
ground ; in summer, when on a journey, the deer are laden 
with goods secured over the back, and their owners walk. 

Besides Norwegians and Lapps there are a few Quains 
scattered over the North. These Quains are what we were 



38 



How to See Norway. 



taught to call 1 Finlanders J at school. They belong, in fact, 
to the ancient race of Finland. They have their own 
language, Queiisk, are taller than the Lapps, and of more 
settled habits. Many have homesteads, and they usually 
live by fishing. 

Those who desire to see the midnight sim should com- 
mence their tour by a voyage to the North. About the 
Lofotender there are some four or five weeks during which 
the sun does not set. A month might be spent among these 
islands and the mountains farther north. At many of the 
shore stations tolerable accommodation may be had ; but 
to do the thing luxuriously it would be best to have a yacht. 



Throndhjem. 



39 



CHAPTER IV. 

Throndhjem — Road from there to Christiania — Romsdal and Romsdalhorn 
— Route from Molde to the Nordfjord — Geir anger fjord, one of the three 
finest Fjorde in Norway — Homingdalsrokken, ascent of — Mountains 
grouped together in Blocks a Feature of the Country — The Nordfjord 
— Taaning — Kirkencebbet — Lodendal and Ncesdal — Brixdalsbrce and 
other Glaciers — St. Ceciliaskrone, ascent of — Flowers on the Top — 
Bredheimsvand — Fjorde, their general Character — Valleys of the 
Sognefjord — Ronnei — yosiedal — Nigaardsbrce and TunbergsdalsbrcB — 
Veitestrand — Homngtinder — Klippemaase, view from — Pass from 
Berge to Rbdsheim — Galdhopigge, ascent of — Glittertind—0\<z Ros- 
heim — Road from Lcerdal, through Valders to Gjovig — Gudvangen 
and Ncerodalen — Har danger fjord — Buerbrce — Ringedal and its Water- 
falls—Norwegian Towns— Bergen — The Lysefjord — Old Moraines — 
fettegryder, or Giants' Kettles — Tides in the Fjorde — Thdemarken — 
Costume — Dirt — Old Wooden Churches — The Rjuka/ifos. 

On the return voyage one may land at Throndhjem, and 
thence pursue the overland route to Molde, which I once did ; 
or continue the journey to Molde by sea. The country be- 
tween the two towns is quite inferior to districts I shall 
presently describe. At Throndhjem the cathedral is worth a 
visit ; there is little else. The Norwegians have a custom of 
bringing fresh flowers every summer week to adorn the graves 
of those they held dear in life * and many graves have 
pretty flower-beds over them, beautifully kept. 'Throndhjem 
churchyard furnishes the best examples I have seen. 

Supposing you to land at Molde, you are within half a 
day (by steamer) of Romsdal, one of the grandest defiles in 
the kingdom. It is unnecessary to drive more than twenty 
English miles up it ; after that the wonders diminish, and 
the rest of the road to Christiania becomes comparatively 



40 



How to See Norzvay. 



tame. I may here remark that the Christiania road from 
Throndhjem is about the poorest route in Norway. The 
only moderately fine bits on it are south of the Dovrefjeld 
and the descent to Lairrgaard station. It is the highway 
of the English ; but those who traverse it, if they see no 
other portions of the country, must receive but false im- 
pressions of what Norway really contains. The valley it 
runs through, Gudbrandsdalen, is inferior to much we have 
in Scotland. The journey from Throndhjem to Christiania 
requires four or five days. 

However, to return to Romsdal : the grandest feature is 
the 6 horn.' Romsdals/iom, rising from a slippery wall of 
rock, terminates in a tower-shaped peak some 4,000 feet 
above the valley. There is a tradition of the summit having 
once been reached by two men. Both are now dead, and 
since then no attempt has been successful. Hardly less 
terrible in appearance are the weird pinnacles called 
Troldtinderne, on the opposite side of the dale. From 
the hill behind Molde you have a wonderful view of the 
Romsdal fells. 

From Molde, by fjord and road, or from Romsdal ■ (in 
which latter case you cross the mountains to the west), the 
traveller cannot do better than proceed via Sundelven 
(fjord) and Hellesylt, to that nucleus of grand scenery the 
upper portion of the Nordfjord, — three days direct. There 
are capital little steamers on all these, as well as on the 
Sog?ie, Hardanger, and other principal fjorde. Most of them 
run at least once a week, calling at the chief stations along 
the shore. Time-tables, issued every summer, give the 
days of sailing, &c. 

Excepting Gudvangen and Lysefjorden probably nothing 
in Norway can rival in savage grandeur one branch of the 
Sundelven. This is the Geirangerfjord, and it can be ex- 
plored in a day from Hellesylt. There is a known pass (for 
pedestrians) from the east end of this fjord over to Gaard 
Mork in Lorn. 



Horningdaisrokken. 4 1 

Between Hellesylt and Faleide (both stations, as are nearly 
all the places I name) several glens are passed on the right ; 
and one of them, just before you reach Haugen, lies under the 
shadow of Horningdaisrokken, a peak crowning one of the 




HORNINGDALSROKKEN, NORWAY. (SKETCHED BY J. R CAMPBELL.) 



finest precipices in Norway. Being the first Englishman who 
reached the top. a short account of the ascent may not be 



42 



How to See Norway. 



out of place. I arrived at Haugen the evening of the 27th 
July, 1866. Lars Elias, the station-master, gave me some 
porridge and a bed, and next day we two started about 
5.30 a.m. in a cart. Our drive was some 3 \ miles up the 
valley to a saeter, where we left the horse and cart, and the 
rest of the way was on foot. Two miles or so through 
birch wood brought us to near the head of the glen ; 
eventually getting clear of the forest and on to a green knoll 
which overlooked a tarn. This water was probably above 
1,000 feet above the sea ; and, almost vertically from its 
margin, rose the peak we had in view — a straight wall of 
rock between 3 ; ooo feet and 4,000 feet high (?). The sum- 
mit, seen from below, appeared to terminate in a rugged 
tower ; but it was not so (as I afterwards found), being in 
reality a ridge, of which we only saw the end. The 
ascent from where we stood looked uninviting enough ; 
but Lars had been up several times before and never 
hesitated about the route. We followed 4 a corry, sheltered 
on the left by this wall of crag, up to a col, or slack, which 
took us 1^ hours to reach. It was very stiff climbing ; 
and, from the steepness and slippery nature of the ground, 
the descent of this portion (on our return) was quite as 
slow. For a long way up there was verdure, including ferns 
and bilberries, which decked the slopes leading between 
Fjeldhammer (as crags forming terraces across a mountain side 
are called), but as we approached the col this disappeared. 
We were now on the upper part of a field of neve, from 
which flowed a glacier down the reverse side of the fell. 
Gently rising, now. in a direction parallel to the glen, 
we traversed the neve — the ridge being above us on our left. 
The snow was just' right for walking on, and there was no 
difficulty in winding round to its junction with the rock at 
the farther and more accessible end of the ridge. The 
edge was very narrow, so much so that on one part 1 
adopted the crawling system, like a bear. It sloped up 
gently to the top, and then continued nearly horizontal for 
some way. The whole ridge was bare of snow, forming a 



Mountains grouped together in Blocks. 43 

crest on the mountain like the comb of a cock. We 
were obliged to follow the edge of it owing to the smooth- 
ness of the craggy slope on the left. As to the other side, 
one might have measured it with a plummet. According to 
a legend, a very long while ago, a Trold, or giant (who re- 
sided on the top), used to sit there and fish the tarn below 
by throwing down a line ! A cairn marked the highest 
point. The view was wonderfully wild. Following the 
way we had come, we reached Haugen by 3.30 p.m. 

The mountains of Norway occur in great blocks rather 
than chains ; the Dovrefjeld may serve as an example. Or, 
more accurately speaking, the long chain running through 
the country north and south consists, for the most part, of 
several such blocks linked by lower elevations. Steep 
slopes lead from the main valleys up to a highland forming 
the general top. This may be nearly a plateau, but is 
usually broken into ravines, more or less. Lakes, rivers, 
and snow-fields diversify the hollows ; and the swells and 
ridges separating these are summits bearing names. For 
the most part these highlands consist of grassy moors, as is 
the case with the Dovre and Fille Fjelde; and wherever it is 
so, saeters are established. On several fjelde, however (not 
altogether depending on their height), nearly the whole is a 
field of neve, perhaps 100 square miles or more in extent, 
broken only by bare crags, and feeding a circle of glaciers 
which descend into the world below. 

Now, the Nordfjord terminates at the foot of one such 
block or fjeld, viz. the Jostedalsbrce — Brae or Iisbrce properly 
meaning ' glacier ' ; and you can best explore the western, 
which is the grandest, side by taking up your quarters at 
Taaning(%. good inn), about 3 \ miles from Faleide, and close 
to Visnces, where the Bergen steamer calls. You are then 
close to the head of the fjord, where three splendid valleys 
begin. Of these Opstryin, albeit it contains a fine lake (or 
Vand in Norsk), is the least remarkable. From the upper 
part of this first valley there are passes to Hellesylt and Lom, 
and a glacier route to Jostedal (a glen on the Sognefjord). 



44 



How to See Norway. 



The view from a mountain called Kirkencebbet, a short day's 
excursion from Taaning, which ladies may take, is extremely 
beautiful. Lodendal, another of the valleys, is thoroughly 
Norsk in character. It also holds a water, conducting to a 
defile called Ncesdal 1 — a narrow cul de sac, grim and gloomy, 
and barred by a precipitous glacier at the end. 

The third valley, that above Olden (where there is no 
inn), is the finest of the three, and requires a day or two to 
explore. (One can sleep at a farm-house.) Melkevoldbrce 
curdles down the gorge at its head, and there are two other 
Braeer in ravines on the left ; one of them. Brixdalsbrcz, the 
cleanest glacier I ever saw. Owing to the fjeld having its 
steeper slopes towards the west, the ice gorges here are 
short ; and the glaciers descend abruptly, torn into a chaos 
of crevasses. They display little appearance 'of moraine 
on the surface, but the terminal de'bris extends over a con- 
siderable length of ground. Many of the lofty summits 
about here are very bold in outline ; one, called St. Cecilias- 
krone, which I ascended, especially so. It springs from the 
side of a lake in this valley, and may be some 5,000 feet 
high. We went up in the afternoon, starting from Eide, a 
gaard in the glen. I and my guides first of all climbed a 
long, steep corry, leading up to a hollow, down which flowed 
a glacier, from a col near the top. This we followed with- 
out difficulty ; and, arrived at the col, had a scramble over 
a stony tract to the highest point, the apex of a dome of 
crags. The rosy light of sunset, flooding the snow moun- 
tains on the opposite side of the glen, was as deep as the 
glow from a furnace ; and the dusky abyss which separated 
us from them seemed but a gun-shot in width. Even at 
this altitude there was vegetation, but chiefly confined to a 
black lichen and the ' reindeer flower ' (Rensdyrblomst, 
properly called Ranunculus glacialis). This latter grows on 
the highest pinnacles, and is said to be esteemed by reindeer 
— hence its name. 

1 See frontispiece. 



Fjorde, their general Character. 



45 



Leaving the Nordfjord, where a week or two might well 
be spent, two days bring you to Vadheim, on the Sognefjord. 
En route you have Bredheimsvand, a lake singularly stern in 
character towards its head, and catch glimpses of glaciers 
crawling over the precipitous heights above Skei. 

The Sognefjord, like many of these larger friths, resembles 
in plan the skeleton of a tree ; and it is not so much 
along the main channel as in the offshoot, corresponding 
to branches and twigs, that the grandest scenery is to be 
found. Many of these are dark narrow lanes of water, bent 
into reaches which here and there expand to the size of 
lakes. Wooded precipices rise straight from the deep, and 
numerous cataracts roar down on all sides. Numbers of 
the falls remind one of the Swiss Staubbach — tassels of spray 
depending from some ledge, and swinging with the breeze 
thousands of feet above the fjord. 

Not only are several of these small branches so fine, but 
the valleys leading down to them are often quite as re- 
markable. Fjcertand 1 and Jostedal (with their glaciers), 
Fortunsdal, Aardal, 2 and Gudvangen, are the most interest- 
ing glens connected with the Sognefjord. To see Jostedal 
you land at Ronnei (a capital inn near Mar if jeer en station), 
and it is a day's ride up the glen to the extreme end. In 
it, and the surrounding neighbourhood, are several large 
glaciers, generally longer and wider, but less inclined, than 
those on the Nordfjord ; but the same tract of neve supplies 
all these ice-streams. Nigaardsbree is one of the largest, 
which every tourist goes to see ; and as there is no station 
or inn, it is usual to sleep at the clergyman's house. This 
gentleman receives a certain allowance to enable him to 
entertain strangers ; but the sum is very small compared with 
the numbers who every summer 6 use ' his house ; and as 
one can offer no remuneration beyond thanks in broken 

1 The glaciers of Fjesrland are described in Excursion 2, Chapter V. 
3 Near Aardal lies the Morkfos, perhaps the grandest waterfall in 
Norway. See Chapter V. p. 66. 



4 6 



How to See Norway. 



Norsk, I should advise all my mountaineering friends to 
put up at some gaard instead. Where there are ladies the 
case is different ; and I may add, nothing can exceed the 
kindness and hospitality of the clergyman and his wife to 
all who come. 

Nigaardsbroe, Tunbergsdalsbrce, and other glaciers of the 
district, are yearly diminishing in size. The first of the 
above has in front of it a desert, extending a good half mile 
along the glen ; and this is ridged by a series of walls, of 
ancient terminal moraine. The walls form curved segments, 
with the concavities towards the ice, running nearly at right 
angles to the course of the glacier, and separated by zones 
of level ground, covered with shingle. Most of the stones 
in the moraines are small and rounded. Another remark- 
able feature about this glacier is the scraped appearance of 
the rocks which flank its base. This extends for 500 feet 
or more above the present level of the ice, and affords a 
good indication of the size of the glacier during former 
periods of its life. 

There is an excursion, I once made, from Round over 
the mountains to Veiiestrand, a strikingly wild valley with 
two glaciers and a long lake. From this there are passes 
to Fjcerland. We returned another way ; viz. by boat down 
the lake, and, then landing, walked by Hillesiad to Marif- 
jceren. Pink snow is common on the mountains in this 
district. I have several times seen it. 

Fortnnsdal (at the end of the Lyster branch of this great 
fjord) lies under a second group or 'block' of highland, 
the Sognefjeld, probably the most remarkable of any in 
Norway. The Horungtinder, its culminating points, form a 
cluster of peaks-; the highest said to be 8,000 ft. above the 
sea. These ' Tinder ' or peaks are portions of sharp ridges, 
whose naked and nearly vertical sides are set in a frame- 
work of snow. In wildness of contour some of them might 
compete with the Matter horn ; mostly they are inaccessible, 
or, at any rate, have never been climbed. The loftiest is 



Horungtindcr. 



one of the Skagasto Hinder, the most easterly row. A 
glacier divides this from the Riigstinder, forming the centre 
arete) and a similar stream of ice lies between the latter 
and Dyrhaiigdtinderne, towards the west. This last ridge is 
connected with a lofty overhanging spire. There is a grassy 
glen below the glaciers, with saeter on it, traversed by a 
horsepass leading to Lorn ; and, either from the pass, or 
from a height called Klippernaase above it, you have a 
wonderful view of the whole. 




HORUNGTINDERNE FROM THE PASS. (SKETCHED BY J. R. CI 



It is about 6\ Norwegian (45I Eng.) miles from Berge to 
Rbdsheim\ the "former being the last station on the Fortun 
side, the latter the first in Lom. The journey is best broken 
by sleeping at Bavertun, a saeter about 28 English miles from 
where you start. The scenery during the first day is strikingly 
wild. 



4 8 



How to See Norway. 



Norway's reputed highest mountain flanks a portion of the 
route. The Galdhopigge (or ' Pike of Galdho,' named after 
a farm at its base) is 8,533 ft. above the sea; or, measured 
from the stream in Bceverdal, it rises about 6,959 ft- These 
altitudes are taken from an old survey ; a new one is now 
being made, and many begin to question the correctness of 
the former. Thus, some think that, if properly measured, 
one of the Horungtinder or the Knudstdltind (which lies in a 
wilderness of fjeld between Bygden and Gjenden lakes) may 
turn out to be the highest point. 

I was staying some time at Rodsheim in 1866 (partly on 
account of bad weather), and after having been twice driven 
back by clouds, reached the top of Galdhopiggen on August 18, 
a clear day. I had two guides, as there were glaciers to cross ; 
and although the crevasses might turn out to be trifling, I 
thought it prudent to take a rope. Starting early in the morning 
from Rodsheim, \\ hours brought us to Raudbergstol (a saeter), 
mostly by a cow-path winding up through a wood. From this 
we sloped up diagonally on to a broad 6 back ' — one could 
hardly term it a ridge. This, at first, is a track of debris and 
by far the worst portion of the route. It forms, as it were, 
the crest of the mountain, leading all the way to the summit, 
from which it is separated by a deep gap. Gently rising, 
we gained a tarn in a little more than three hours from the 
saeter. This lies under a glacier and is shored on the far side 
by a wall of ice. With its little icebergs it reminded me of 
the Marjelen See in Switzerland. I believe the whole excur- 
sion might be considerably shortened by following the valley 
to Bceverdal church, or to a point beyond it, and from there 
mounting straight to this tarn. The usual course from the 
tarn is along a stony tract bordering the east shore • we, 
unfortunately, chose the glacier on the other side, and found 
walking very laborious, owing to a thick skin of fresh snow. 
Our progress was very slow, although at times nearly on a 
level ; the wavy ' back ' being above us on our right, while 
to our left (below the glacier) was Visdal, whence the ascent 



Galdkopiggen. 



49 



is also sometimes made. We had two glaciers to traverse, 
both of them smooth but with narrow crevasses beneath the 
snow. The first is called the Slyggebrce, and the other the 
Tvcebottenbrce ; they are divided by a ridge, and the latter 
flows directly from the top. A spur-like ridge, projecting 
from the steep snow slopes of the highest portion of the 
mountain, enabled us to reach the summit. This is a plateau 
of snow with vertical precipices on all sides but one. We 
had been 6\ hours from the saeter ; but had the snow been 
harder, should have done it in, at least, an hour less. 
The top commands a view, the wildest I ever saw. In 
nearly all directions, but especially towards the south, ridges 
and pinnacles rise one behind another, each mantled with 
snow, like foamy waves of a colossal sea; and barring one with 
its lakes and rivers, the valleys appeared as dusky grooves, 
scarcely distinguishable. Not one house was to be seen even 
with a glass. Nothing was visible but forms of crag and 
snow — several mountains (the Glittertind? in Visdal, for one) 
being spire-like. The panorama was almost a chaos, hundreds 
of square miles in extent. Still there were some signs of life — 
a hare had left her track across the top. 

Ole Rodsheim (of Rodsheim) is a justly celebrated guide. 
Professionally a small farmer, he has taught himself English 
and some German, and, I believe, has a smattering of botany 
and mineralogy besides. From his station the carriage route 
to Lillehammer begins ; you can drive there in from two to 
three days ; thence by steamer and rail on to Christiania 
in one. 

To return to the Sognefjord. From the village of Leer dais - 
b'ren there is a road via the Fittefjeld and Valders to Chris- 
tiania ; a journey of four or five days. The approach to the 
fjeld is good and the scenery of the Lille Mjdsenvand fine. 

1 For an account of an ascent of this mountain, see ' The Glittertind 
and Uledalstind in Norway,' by T. L. Murray Browne, in Vol. V. * Alpine 
Journal,' number for February 1871. The paper is very interesting 
as giving a good sketch of the mountain route between Bceverdal and 
Nystuen. 

E 



So 



Hozv to See Norway. 



After this the views grow tamer, but there is much pretty 
scenery of a quiet kind nearly all the way to Gjovig, a 
steamboat station on the Mjosen, which is an immense lake 
skirted by low hills and connected by rail with Christiania. 
But the most remarkable branch of the Sognefjord is that 
leading to Gudvangen. This, with Ncerodalen (the glen 
beyond), contains scenes of rugged grandeur equal to any 
in the country. The road from Gudvangen runs to Bergen, 
which may be reached in two or three days ; it is, however, 
a good plan to leave it at Vossevangen and strike into Hard- 
anger — a detour which may occupy from four days to a week. 

The Har danger fjord has been praised to the skies, but I 
think the traveller will be disappointed with it after seeing 
others I have described. The mountains are high and charm- 
ingly wooded, but they have a poverty of outline — the tops 
are too flat. Here again is a snowy highland (the Folge Fond), 
some forty miles long. One of its glaciers, the Buerbrcz, near 
Odde, had advanced, I was told when there in 1866, about 
2,000 A /en (i.e. 1,370 yards) during the preceding twenty 
years ; it was added, that other glaciers from the same source 
had not grown longer during that time. The truth of the 
latter part of the statement I doubt, albeit I had it from a 
native of the place. 

The best day's excursion from Odde is to Ringedal and 
back. Both the lake and the glen leading to it from the fjord 
are very fine. A lofty waterfall, the Ringedals- or Skjceggedals- 
fos, thunders down into the lake, and another Fos, the 
Tyssestrcznge, formed by two meeting in their descent, is seen 
on the right, cased in an amphitheatre of crags. The track 
to the lake would be hardly traversable in parts, owing to 
the frequent occurrence of strips of smooth rock which it 
crosses, were it not for ledges formed of fir-stems pinned to 
them. Along these you walk with ease, and even cows and 
horses pass. The quantity of such slippery crags (roehes 
moutonnees) among the mountains of Norway is remarkable. 

But what is of most interest in the Hardanger district is the 



The Voringfos. Towns. 



5? 



celebrated Voringfos. This lies about fourteen miles above 
the steamer-station Vik. Although the highest in Norway, 
the descent being estimated at 900 ft., 1 it is questionable 
whether, as a sight, it equals the Rjukan fall • for of the latter 
you have a front view, while the Vb'ring can hardly be seen 
but from above. Still, the jump of a large stream into a 
gorge truly horrible in its grandeur — a mere groove in breadth 
and 1,000 ft. deep from where you stand — produces an im- 
pression no traveller who has seen it can ever forget. 

Hardanger is visited by weekly steamers from Bergen, and 
I believe there are boats also from Stavanger. 

I have scarcely mentioned the towns of Norway for this 
reason — they contain hardly anything to see. Chris tiania is 
the dullest capital in Europe — a day is quite enough there. 
Stavanger has a very old church, interesting to architects at 
least ; and at Bergen there is a museum of natural history, &c, 
worth visiting. Bergen is the prettiest town in the country. 
The principal part of it is clustered on a rocky promontory 
projecting into a bay, backed by hills right and left, with a 
little lake in the rear. Most of the houses are wood and 
tinted ; and, from wherever you view it, the place has a 
charming effect. It is said to rain there two hundred days 
in the year, but this is an exaggeration. Doubtless along 
the west coast the rainfall is considerable, though less, I 
believe, than in some parts of Scotland. Generally an east 
wind brings fine weather to the fjorde and rain in Gud- 
brandsdalen (and other valleys lying east of the main chain); 
a west wind having exactly the reverse effect — wet along the 
coast and dry weather inland. 

In the early portion of this hasty sketch of Norwegian 
scenery I incidentally alluded to the Lysefjord. There is a 

1 Since this was written, the height of the fall has been estimated by 
Captain Lille (who succeeded in approaching the base of it) at not 
more than half what I have stated. See 'Den Norske Turistforenings 
Arbog for 1870.' The uncertainty that has prevailed regarding the 
heights of both this and the Rjukanfos is quite extraordinary. 

E 2 



52 



How to See Norway. 



small open steamer once or twice a week from Stavanger to 
Fossand, seventeen or eighteen miles. There the fjord begins 
— a narrow gloomy channel, twenty five miles long and to a 
great extent hemmed in by towering walls of bare rock. The 
upper end is the most striking portion ; there there are two 
or three farms, but neither station nor church and so retired 
is this spot that the clergyman, who lives twenty-nine miles 
off, only visits it once a year, except when specially sent for. 
On that occasion he consecrates the graves of any who may 
have died since his last visit, and who have been buried by 
their friends in a little sacred enclosure overlooking the 
lonely glen and fjord. He also examines the children 
in their catechism, &c. In other parts of Norway where a 
regular church exists, the priest devotes several months to 
the religious instruction of all young people preparing for 
confirmation, and the answers some of them give to questions 
in elementary theology would do credit to most adults belong- 
ing to the educated classes of our own country. In visiting 
the Lysefjord it is a good plan to leave the steamers at a place 
called Hole, a better station than Fossand, and to take a boat 
from there right to the end of the fjord. 

The valley which now contains this arm or finger of the 
sea, as is the case with many other glens, once formed the 
channel of a glacier. The usual marks, scratches and grooves 
in the rock, are plainly exhibited here and there along the 
shore. Nor is this all : there are fragments of ancient 
moraines on the mountain-sides ; one, a Titanic wall lying 
some 200 ft. or 300 ft. above Fossand, is exceedingly remark- 
able ; many of the stones it contains are of immense size. 
I forgot to mention that in Jostedal the remains of a lateral 
moraine stretch horizontally across the western slopes some 
1,000 ft. above the river. Along the shore of the Lysefjord 
many beautiful serpentine formations may be observed; also 
(a mile or two above Fossand in a rock forming part of the 
south shore) a string of so-called ' Jettegryder' or ' Giants' 
Kettles.' These geological curiosities are cup-shaped hollows 



Jettegryder. Thelemarken. 



S3 



in the rock, probably having been, at some remote period of 
the world's history, pools in the bed of a mountain-stream, 
now no longer existing ; or, if so, pursuing a widely different 
course. They are often found far removed from any torrent. 
Close to Berge is a very distinct set ; others are passed on 
the hill above Hellesylt, just below the road near the clergy- 
man's house, and in both these latter cases the ancient water- 
course is nearly parallel to, but hundreds of feet above, the 
present stream. 

Up the fjorde along the west coast there is very little tide, 
and the water towards their extremities, owing to the influx 
of large rivers, is nearly fresh. The smaller branches usually 
freeze in winter, while the main arteries remain open, or 
only partially covered with ice. The steamers, for the most 
part, ply all the year round ; in winter getting as far up the 
fjorde as the ice will permit. They carry the mails to post- 
offices along their respective routes. Where there is no 
steam communication, the letter-bags are transported by 
row-boat or karjol. The posts are slow but sure ; in few 
parts of Norway are there deliveries more than twice a week. 

There remains one other important district worthy of 
notice, and with that I will conclude. Thelemarken, in the 
south of Norway, can be reached from Christiania, either 
via Drammen or Skien (to which there is a steamer from the 
capital) ; and a patient pedestrian may attack it from Har~ 
danger direct, by traversing the Hardangerfjeld, said to be 
156 miles across (?). In Thelemarken, costume is more dis- 
played than in other parts of Norway, being less confined to 
women alone. Here the male population adhere to their 
ancient garb, viz. an extremely short- waisted jacket with 
bright buttons, breeches, and silver shirt-studs, &c. The dress 
of the women of Norway varies with the locality, and would 
take pages to describe. It is seldom picturesque. Every 
man and boy carries a knife, called a Tollekniv : it is worn in 
a sheath strapped round the waist, and used for general pur- 
poses. En passant, I have never myself thought it neces- 



54 



How to See Norway. 



sary to drag about a revolver, but there are nevertheless some 
fresh-men to the country who do so. When not exhibited as 
a threat it becomes simply a harmless absurdity — Norway, to 
a stranger, being a much safer place than London by night. 
Stories are current of tourists displaying one in order to en- 
force a 'command,' — a very dangerous game at the best. 
They were put down as madmen. 

In every country a traveller finds some element of dis- 
comfort. Norway has its drawbacks, and the principal one 
is dirt. I do not mean to imply that all houses are alike in 
this respect ; a large number are clean and well kept ; but 
among the poorer people especially, cleanliness is lamentably 
rare. Possibly in other lands the same class are quite as bad; 
but where you lodge in hotels you are less liable to suffer 
from this defect. In Norway there is, frequently, no escape 
for you — you must put up in a flea-hive, or bivouac out on 
the fjeld. The amount of cleanliness varies much with the 
district, and in this respect Thelemarken is far from being the 
best. A tin can full of insect powder is much more to the 
purpose in journeying through many parts of Norway than 
the cart-load of eatables many travellers consider essential 
on a tour. 

There is a singular ancient church at Hitter dal> in this 
district, built of wood ; it is covered with scales, and de- 
corated with quaint ornaments and spires. Another of the 
same class is at Borgund, near Lczrdalsoren. 

The traveller in Thelemarken must not expect the bold 
mountain forms he has seen farther north, but should he 
only have a week in Norway he could hardly devote him- 
self to a better district than this. The great attraction of the 
journey is the magnificent Rjukanfos. 

This is situated amongst high mountains, distant two days 
from Christiania, or half a day (eight miles) from the inn at 
Dale. You look from the edge of a cauldron of rocks, some 
300 or 400 yards wide, the bottom of which forms the pool, 
and in front of you tumbles the river, making one plunge of 



The Rjukaiifos. 



55 



600 feet. There is a considerable difference of opinion re- 
garding the 'heights of both this and the Voringfos ; I 
believe, the only means taken to compute them has been 
that of timing the descent of a stone. The dimensions I 
give are those commonly received as the true ones, but to 
the spectator they will probably seem to be exaggerated. 

The view from the side of the ledge or lip, over which the 
torrent pours, is very remarkable. This point may be reached 
either by the track called the Maristi, part of which requires 
caution owing to the smoothness of the crags ; or better, by 
a slightly circuitous way, which latter — having tried both — I 
certainly prefer. Arrived there, and lying on your chest, 
you gaze over the brink on to a scene fearfully grand. The 
river Maan — large early in summer owing to the melting of 
the snows — comes tearing down a rapid leading to the fall. 
White as milk, from its battle with the crags, onward the 
water rushes, one might almost say to its doom. From the 
brink one fierce bound — a leap so appalling it might serve 
as a symbol of death — amid a roar and crash that shakes the 
rock, and, it is gone ! Columns of spray rebound from the 
basin, and lofty clouds of vapour reek amongst the crags. 
When I was there two arcs of rainbow formed a broken 
bridge across the pool. A mile down the valley, and the 
river flows in peace. — A poet might liken its course to that 
of a good soul passing through death into a happier world. 



56 



How to See Norway. 



CHAPTER V. 

Excursions in Norway. — I. Torghatten. — 2. Fjcerland, — 
3. The Mdrkfos. 

i. Torghatten. 

Torghatten, already mentioned (page 33), is a small 
island on the coast of Norway, being one of that long belt 
which forms a fringe along the Arctic coast, and is ob- 
servable by all travellers in the weekly steamers between 
Throndhjem and Hammerfest, as they thread the narrow 
channel, or sound, which divides it from the mainland. It 
derives its name, Torghatten, or 6 the hat of Torg/ from a 
supposed resemblance it bears in shape to a colossal ' wide- 
a-wake,' resting, brim downwards, 011 the sea. Who Torg 
was I don't know. The island is chiefly remarkable from 
there being a great hole right through it. This occurs about 
half-way up a mountain which corresponds, as it were, to 
the crown of the hat. Viewed from the steamer the open- 
ing appears small and insignificant; you may, however, 
generally notice a ray of light shining through it as you pass. 

From the few words in Murray's handbook, and scanty 
information derived from other sources regarding it, I had 
a great desire to explore this natural wonder, and, being in 
the summer of 1868 in Norway, embarked for that purpose 
in the weekly Hammerfest-bound steamer from Throndhjem. 
These steamers leave Throndhjem every Wednesday for 
the north, stopping at numerous stations en route — depots for 
merchandise, passengers, and mails. 

A very curious accident occurred as we were steaming 



Remarkable Boat Accident, 



57 



out of the Throndhjemsfjord, about 2 p.m. An open fish- 
ing-boat, with sail set, was observed bearing down towards 
us on our left, and the ship's course was slightly altered 
to give her more room. Had there been anyone steering 
the boat, a collision would have been impossible. Un- 
fortunately this was not the case ; her crew, consisting of 
two men and a girl, were, it turned out, asleep, and the 
consequence was she did not quite clear us. Her mast 
caught a boat hanging out on the port-davits, there was 
a cracking of spars, screams from the ladies on deck, and 
then we saw the little craft dragged over ; and, as the 
water rushed over the low gunwale, she rapidly turned 
keel uppermost. There was immense excitement. The 
steamer had, of course, been stopped, and not a moment 
was lost in getting a boat out to rescue the unfortunate 
crew. Before this was launched, however, we saw the head 
of a man — I believe he was the father of the two others — 
rising, apparently, from under the wreck, and followed 
by his shoulders and body, as he contrived to creep up 
and get astride of the keel. A second or two later and 
a younger man did the same ; and there they sat shouting 
lustily for assistance — their boat being now floating in our 
wake. The girl was not to be seen, but it was supposed 
she was under the boat. On reaching it our sailors at once 
applied themselves to raise the gunwale, but so long a time 
elapsed before they succeeded in doing so, and getting hold 
of the girl, that I, for one, began to have little hopes of her 
life. However, out they brought her at last. It appeared 
to me about seven minutes from the time of the capsize 
when they hauled her into their boat, where her companions 
already sat. Then, amidst universal joy, all three were 
brought on board the steamer, had brandy given them, and 
were put to bed. We got the fishing-boat righted, and took 
it in tow. It had sustained very little damage ; even some 
loose boxes, and other articles the party had with them, 
floated, and were fished in \ and, when we reached the 



58 



How to See Norway. 



station near where they lived, there we left them— not likely 
ever to forget their adventure of that day. 

It would appear that the boat turned over so rapidly as 
to incase under it a quantity of air. This the girl breathed 
during the time she was entombed, and it acted as a cushion 
in preventing the boat from pressing her head below water. 
The others, I was told, called to her through the planks, 
asking her how she was getting on. ' Meget godt] 1 she re- 
plied, adding that she hoped a boat would be sent from the 
ship to save her. 

I left the steamer next day at a station called Bronosund, 
a solitary house on the mainland, some miles north of 
Torghatten, but the nearest point of disembarkation for that 
island. I doubt if even tolerable accommodation could be 
procured at this post- and boat-house ; but there are several 
dwellings within a mile or two of it, mostly belonging to 
merchants and traders in cod-fish, where lodging may some- 
times be obtained — though only by favour. I was fortunate 
in meeting on board the steamer two sons of the clergyman 
of Bronosund going on a visit to their father, and they very 
kindly gave me an introduction to the house of a Mr. Edward 
Quale, trader 2 and landhandler, where I found every com- 
fort during the few days I remained in the neighbourhood. 
There are, however, many private houses nearer to the hole 
than SceZkuus, where he lived. 

About Bronosund the coast is generally flat, and, to a 
great extent, wooded with birch. The inland horizon is 
backed by a range of mountains feeble in outline. The 
islands are mostly long flat strips of rock, with bare grass- 
land on the top ; here and there you see stacks of dip fish 
drying in the sun-. Torghatten is an exception to the rule, 
as are also some distant islands — Vegen, for example, whose 
high peaks rise like crisp blue clouds in the offing farther 

1 ' Very well.' 

2 The traders ply in curious vessels called 4 Jagts ' (whence our 
word * yacht' ?), between the Lofoden Islands and Bergen, with fish. 



Torghattcn Tunnel. 



59 



north. But Norway's splendid coast scenery does not fairly 
begin for about i oo miles north of Bronosund. 

After waiting two days on account of weather, I visited 
Torghatten on the 28th, in company with my host, two of 
the clergyman's sons, and another man. We had to pull all 
the way from Sselhuus — about seven English miles — but got 
the wind in coming back. 

Our landing was in a little bay on the east coast of the 
island. There are three or four farmhouses on it — one 
called Torge giving the name to the place. The island may 
be roughly computed at about three miles from north to 
south by one from east to west. A mountain some 900 feet 
high forms the main bulk of it ; this, in parts around the 
base, is skirted by grass and some cultivated land, and there 
is a little scrubby birch on the slopes. The entire forma- 
tion is gneiss, very nearly approaching to granite — indeed, 
the whole coast of Norway, for hundreds of miles, is of the 
same geological character. 

The tunnel — I prefer that word to cavern — runs NE. and 
SW. ) and the NE. entrance, to which we climbed (after pay- 
ing a short visit to one of the farms near the landing-place), 
lies at the head of an incline of debris — fallen, I imagine, for 
the most part, from the rock outside, which is indented, and 
presents somewhat the appearance of a quarry in the face of 
the mountain. The debris descends in a rough steep slope 
from this point into the body of the tunnel — a colossal gallery, 
some 200 yards long, and varying in width from 15 to 20 
yards. It is quite straight, with smooth vertical walls and a 
jagged roof. The height of the roof over the NE. portal 
may be about 70 feet, but above the centre and towards the 
opposite end much more — probably from 100 to 120. The 
length we measured, roughly, by means of a fishing-line ; 
but none of the above dimensions must be taken as more 
than rude approximations to the true ones. The great dif- 
ference in altitude between the two ends arises partly, I think, 
from the presence of the debris, which seems to occupy a 



6o 



How to See Norway, 



huge portion of the original NE. portal; indeed, the floor, if 
I may so term it — there 500 feet above the sea level — is 80 
feet higher than it is at the SW. end. From the foot of the 
descent the floor continues in a succession of stony waves 
to the farther opening. 

As may be expected, the view from the crest of debris 
under the NE. entrance is very remarkable. It is impressive 
in the extreme. You look downwards right through this 
grand natural hall, faintly illuminated by a flood of light 
pouring in from the other side of the mountain, whilst the 
distant aperture forms a rocky frame to a small bright picture 
— a patch of green meadow (lying at the base of the hill), 
and the blue sea studded with islands, above it. 

The tunnel is easily traversable, and the approaches are 
void of any difficulty. It is used as a common communica- 
tion between the farms, one of which is situated on the SW. 
shore. 

Without attempting any long geological enquiry as to the 
formation of this singular place, I will merely suggest that it 
probably owes its existence to the destruction of a vertical 
slice of rock cased between walls of a harder nature than 
itself ; indeed, it is noticeable that the blocks fallen from 
the roof are of a more rosy tint than that of the stone found 
in other situations. It is possible that whilst disintegration 
was proceeding to the greatest extent, the island may have 
been submerged to a point considerably above the present 
floor, and that the detached fragments were borne away by 
the action of strong currents. The surfaces of the layers, 
forming the roof, appeared to dip towards the south ; and 
save where a little water trickled from it, near the SW. ex- 
tremity, the tunnel was very dry. 

After exploring the ' hole,' some of us scrambled, by fol- 
lowing a ridge, on the top of the mountain above. I made 
the height to be about 900 feet. The view did not strike 
me much, having seen the same kind from higher elevations. 
At the foot of the large dome-shaped mound which contains 



Fjcerland. 



61 



the tunnel, there are numerous lower heights approximating 
to it in form, reminding one of bosses or cupolas of rock. 
There are also several cracks or horizontal perforations, 
which appear to be imperfectly developed tunnels, all of 
them parallel in direction to the great hole. One of these I 
went into. It was a groove, like a narrow railway cutting, 
extending many yards and terminating in a small cavern. 
It lay almost vertically under the grand hall. 

We returned in the evening to Saelhuus, and next day I 
took the passing steamer back to Throndhjem. 

N.B. — The boats going south pass Bronosund every 
Monday. 

2. Fjcerland, 

Few parts of Norway contain more of the stern, impres- 
sive scenery, so characteristic of that country, than the dis- 
trict of Fjcerland, including the fjord and the valleys to 
which it forms the approach. 

The neighbourhood has an advantage over many others, 
possibly of equal grandeur, in being within easy reach of the 
ordinary tourist route — the Sogneijord ; for most pleasure 
travellers persist in following one another like a flock of 
sheep, and I have rarely encountered one in Norway who 
was not pressed for time. Now during the height of sum- 
mer there are two steamers a week that make the tour of 
this great fjord, of which Fjcerlandsfjord is a northerly 
branch, running at right angles to it. A station called Bal- 
holni, where the steamers will land you, is close to the junc- 
tion of the waters. Here there is a tolerable little inn, con- 
taining perhaps some three or four bedrooms — few Norwegian 
houses have more. 

Ten minutes' walk from the inn and you come to the 
Essefjord, also an offshoot from the main channel, but small 
and lake-like. It is wild in character, and worth exploring, 
should you have time. 

Once a month a Bergen steamer not only touches at 



62 



How to See Norway. 



Balholm but goes up the Fjaerlandsfjord and back. Infor- 
mation about this is given in the published steamer routes. 
She only stops a few minutes at the end of the fjord, so there 
is no time to go ashore and return with her, but it is con- 
venient to avail oneself of this steamer either in going or 
coming back. The general way, however, is to hire a row- 
boat and three men from Balholm direct to Fjaerland — a 
cluster of houses with a church, near the end of the fjord, 
distant 17^ English miles. The boats carry a sail when the 
wind is favourable. 

As you progress up Fjaerlandsfjord — a dark groove-like 
passage, walled in by savage and often unscaleable preci- 
pices from 3,000 to 4,000 feet high — the boatmen will point 
out Rommehest, a towering peak above the margin on the 
right. I walked to the top of this during my stay in the 
district in 1868, having slept the night before at a sseter, or 
summer cheese-farm, high up among the mountains in a side 
glen called Rommedal, from which a ridge is easily gained 
leading to the summit. The view was a glorious one. I 
looked down upon the long valley of water with its wild torn 
cliffs, and there was a nearly complete belt of snowy moun- 
tains encircling the panorama, broken by glaciers here and 
there. 4,030 feet was the height indicated by my aneroid, 
but I learnt afterwards, from an officer on the trigonome- 
trical survey now going on, that this was a little more than 
the true one. In the present Norwegian survey most of the 
heights are computed from vertical angles taken with a kind 
of theodolite, base lines being obtained with sufficient accu- 
racy from the plans of the low ground. 

There is no inn at Fjaerland ; however, lodging may gene- 
rally be obtained 'at one or other of the farmhouses in the 
village or dotted round the head of the fjord. My sleeping- 
place was at a gaard called Mimdal, near the church, where 
the people — as usual in Norway — gave me the best accom- 
modation their house afforded. 

Three valleys radiate from the low tract at the end of the 



Glaciers of F jeer land. 



63 



fjord, a few minutes' row from the church, of which Suphel- 
ledal and Bojumsdal are the most noticeable. I saw both 
the day after my arrival, but now much regret not having 
devoted more time to them. Two or three days might well 
be spent in the neighbourhood. Peter Asmunden, son of 
the farmer at whose house I lodged, acted as my guide. He 
was a very intelligent lad of eighteen, who had been edu- 
cated by the clergyman ; and though working as a wood- 
cutter and about the farm, Peter told me he knew something 
of Latin, could construe the Greek Testament, had studied 
elementary mathematics, and acquired some knowledge of 
German and French. The weather, I may mention, was 
brilliant, but extremely hot. 

Our first walk was up Suphelledal, a long narrow gorge, 
gloomily grand, framed between craggy heights which appear 
almost mural viewed from the opposite side. This is tho- 
roughly Norwegian in character. A tolerable road leads up 
it for some miles, two or three times crossing the large gla- 
cier stream. The only awkward parts of the excursion are 
the bridges, which occur in series — the stream in many places 
being split into two or three. They are formed of two barked 
and roughly squared trunks laid close together, side by side, 
with their ends supported on rude stone piers. There is just 
room for one foot on each ; but what with the narrowness of 
the way, the spring in the birch stems, the fact that there is 
often no railing, and your having your eyes resting on the 
roaring white current below, some steadiness of head is re- 
quired for a safe transit, may be, of 20 feet or more. The 
Norsk girls, of course, think nothing of going over such 
places — in summer with a big bundle of hay on their backs ; 
for the people mow every green speck it is possible to 
scramble up to, so great is the difficulty in procuring suffi- 
cient hay for the winter months. 

About four miles' walk took us in front of the Suphelle- 
brse, the first of the glaciers in this valley. It is a broken- 
ofif structure of ice at the foot of a lofty wall of bare rock, fed 



6 4 



How to See Norway. 



by avalanches from a glacier above. This latter glacier, of 
which you see the jagged edge overlooking the crag, is one 
in direct connection with the so-called Jostedalsbree — a vast 
field of ice and neve extending with hardly a break over the 
entire range between the Sognefjord and the Nordijord. 1 
During our short halt there, we saw numerous small ava- 
lanches splintering down. I had not time to go all the way 
to the second Brae, called the Lille Suphellebrae, some two 
or three miles farther on. It is said to be a continuous 
stream from the plateau above, and remarkable for the purity 
of its ice. Perhaps the finest view of this valley is got from 
a point just before you enter it. 

In our walk we had to cross the fast decaying remains 
of a recent spring avalanche which covered the road, and 
had passed unpleasantly near to a gaard. The road was 
through a wood at this spot, but now only the tops of the 
alder-trees were visible protruding above the snow. All 
had been borne down in the direction of the flow. Every 
leaf was gone, the bark also to a great extent, and the ends 
of the twigs were frayed just as though they had been 
pounded between two stones. In Norway, as in other 
high-mountain countries, yearly avalanches — one or more in 
certain valleys, but generally pursuing an established course — 
fall every spring. When, however, there is an unusual accu- 
mulation of snow on the highlands, as there was during the 
winter of 1867, extra falls — often of enormous volume — 
occur, tearing downwards by the least expected routes, and 
many were the sad stories I heard of entire households 
having been destroyed a few months back. Indeed the 
spring of 1868 seems to have been marked in Norway by a 
train of fatalities such as one rarely, if ever, hears of in 
Switzerland. One avalanche, happily unaccompanied by 

1 All the glaciers pouring into the many valleys which penetrate this 
range or block of high land, as Brixdalbrse, Nigaardsbrse, &c. have 
their origin in this field. Its extent is as yet hardly known. Probably 
the area may te between seven and ten Norsk square miles (?). See 
page 43. 



The Bojinnsbrce. 



65 



loss of life, is worth mentioning on account of its size. It 
fell into Fjserla'ndsfjord from the mountains on the west 
shore, and the snow formed a floating bridge, for a time, 
across the water — at that place nearly a mile in width — over 
which people walked. This I heard from several who lived 
in the district, or should hardly have believed it. 

Bojumsdal, the valley I next visited, lies westward of Su- 
phelledal — a mountain singularly bold in outline, separating 
the two glens at their junction. The slopes are very pre- 
cipitous, but to a great extent clothed with birch — as indeed 
are those along the fjord. The grandeur of this second 
valley bursts upon you all at once as, turning a bend, 
you come in sight of the great glacier streaming down 
its end. From a point just beyond the termination of 
a green strath between towering rocks rises the crevassed 
swell, which has a gentle incline on the top for some 
hundreds of yards, and beyond this the main body of the 
flow rears itself — a steep colossal bank of ice, purely white, 
without moraines and apparently 3,000 feet high ! This is 
the Bojumsbrce, about the most striking glacier I know in 
Norway. The terminal debris occurs in lumps and short 
segments fronting the base. In approaching it I crossed a 
stream by a snow bridge, in the absence of which it might 
be difficult for ladies to arrive at the ice ; otherwise the ex- 
cursion to this glacier, distant some 5 or 6 miles from the 
fjord, is one they might easily make. 

Professor Sexa of Christiania, a gentleman who has de- 
voted some time and attention to the observation of glacier 
phenomena, was staying at a gaard above Fjaerland, and I 
had the pleasure of meeting him during my rambles. He 
told me some curious facts relative to the temperature of 
the ice below the surface, derived from certain experiments 
made by him on a glacier of the Folgefond in Hardanger. 
It would appear from his investigations that, whatever be the 
temperature of the superincumbent atmosphere, that of the 
ice not directly exposed to its influence remains about the 

F 



66 



How to See Norway. 



same throughout the year, being constantly near upon freez- 
ing point. I understood the Professor to say, he had bored 
three holes in the surface of the glacier and sunk a mini- 
mum thermometer in each. The lowest temperature of the 
air in the valley during the winter he assumed to be — 14 
Reaumur. The thermometers remained in the ice all the 
winter, and on his examining them the following summer, 
the first, which had been buried 4 Norwegian feet, was found 
exposed by the melting of the surface ; it registered — i° R. 
The second, which had been sunk to a depth of 8 Norwegian 
feet, indicated a minimum temperature of — ^ R., and the 
ice had thawed down to it. On digging out the third, ori- 
ginally placed at the depth of 12 or 14 Norwegian feet, 1 it 
was found broken, and therefore gave no result. 

I forgot to mention, that you can go in less than a day 
from Fjserland to Veitestrand, another wild valley with two 
glaciers in it, by crossing a snow pass at the head of Su- 
phelledal. From Veitestrand an easy pass takes you over 
into Jostedal. (See page 45.) 

3. The Morkfos. 

In order to visit this remarkable waterfall, the easiest way 
is to disembark at Aardal? on the Sognefjord, one of the 
stopping-places of the weekly steamers, from which it is 
distant 16 or 17 English miles (according to local belief 
somewhat less), up a wild valley, and just beyond a farm 
called Vette. 

Aardal station, at the head of Aardalsfjord (a short branch 
of the great Sognefjord), stands, surrounded by grand scenery, 
on a neck of green land about a mile square, called Tangen. 
This neck divides the fjord from Aardalsvand, a fresh-water 
lake, and has dotted over it a number of farms, besides a 
parish church and Frees tegaard (manse). Close to the station 

1 A Norwegian foot = 1 '029 English. 

2 Sometimes spelt Aurdal. Vette is also sometimes written Vetje. 
In these and countless other cases of names of places there is much 
uncertainty with regard to the orthography. 





THE MORKFOS. 



Aardalsvand. 



6 7 



is a comfortable little inn kept by Jens Klingenberg and his 
wife. Jens is a good specimen of a Norwegian mountaineer ; 
I found him a capital companion and guide. Should any 
future traveller require a man conversant with the high and 
hardly-known mountains of this district, there is also a certain 
Dominicus ' to be heard of there,' who appears an intelligent 
fellow, and who told me he had accompanied one of the 
government officers on a recent trigonometrical survey. . 

Jens and I started for the fos on the morning of August 
25, 1868. Weather beautiful until the afternoon, when it 
broke and continued showery all that and the following day. 
Tangen is intersected by a wide river leading from the lake 
into the sea, and both the river and fjord are said to abound 
with large sea trout. I mention this simply as a report, not 
being a fisherman myself. We had two extra hands to pull 
us up the lake, which is about 5 miles long, and one of the 
grandest bits of fresh water I ever saw. Mountains — little 
else than piles of crag, with a green speck here and there — 
rise in many parts 4,000 feet abruptly along its shore. Most 
of these verdant patches, however, are mown in summer — 
often at the peril of people's lives. 1 One precipice, the 
Stigeberg, overshadowing the lake on the right, is singularly 
bold. The side springing from the water is a crag wall 
some 800 feet in height, but this is the lowest portion, for 
the precipice continues round the foot of a gill (which enters 
the lake beyond), and is developed into an unbroken face, 
as vertical as possible, and apparently 2,000 feet high. On 
the opposite side of the lake, also, the mountains are very 
wild, torn by deep corries, and seamed with numerous cas- 
cades ; and in the smooth vertical rock flanking one of the 
gills, there occurs a curious network of quartz veins. Farther 

1 A girl haymaking on the rocks above Aardalsfjord lost her life by 
a fall only a few days before my visit to the neighbourhood ; but, on 
the whole, such accidents are rare. Many of the peasants wear shoes 
called Snaakopper, which are merely upper-leathers formed into bags 
for the feet. They afford a wonderful amount of grip on smooth 
rocks. 

F 2 



68 



How to See Norway. 



on the traces of an old copper-mine may be observed high 
above the shore. 

From the head of the lake where we landed, pretty nearly 
all the way to Gelle, a distance of about 5 miles, the valley 
is a meadow with numerous farmhouses and - patches of 
grain. A wide river courses through it, which was on our 
left all the way to the fall. 

In this (first) portion of the dale there is a spring which is 
said to be so warm in winter as to melt the surrounding snow, 
whilst during the hot weather in summer it is always en- 
crusted with ice. This I heard on respectable authority. I 
should have visited it on my way, but it lies on the left of 
the river, and there is no bridge for miles. At several of 
the houses on our route Jens made a call ; he was evidently 
a great man in the valley, and (chiefly, I fancy, on his ac- 
count) we were more than once hospitably entertained, 
especially on our journey back. At Svale (next day) we 
were regaled with coffee, cakes, and liqueur — any hint at 
payment for which would have been an affront. Moen, a 
gaard crowning the brow of a sandhill, appeared to me one 
of the best houses, and where lodging might probably be 
procured if required during a day or two's exploration of the 
vale. 1 Just beyond Gelle (where a noticeable cataract tears 
down the mountain side), there is a spur projecting nearly 
across the glen, and the river boils through a groove at the 
base of its overhanging crags. You climb the spur, and 
from the top follow a path skirting a steep slope, down into 
a narrow, somewhat dreary defile called Uttlidal, which is 
simply a continuation of the main valley. For the remainder 
of the way the river is a boisterous torrent of white water, 
generally roaring at the bottom of an inaccessible groove. 
It is seldom more than 100 feet wide, and at Gelle only 60. 
There, there is a picturesque wooden bridge leading to the 
farms on the other side of the vale. A well-defined track 
undulates along a strip of de'bris, descended from a range of 

1 A pass leads from near there over to A T ystuen on the Fillefjeld. 



Mountain Farms. 



6 9 



crags, all the way up Uttlidal. Now and then a stone 
avalanche 1 might occur about this part ; indeed, I noticed 
the trace of a small one in returning next day. 

Farmhouses perched high among the rocks on some nar- 
row terrace, or looking down from the plateau above — 
human nests, as it were, often hardly accessible to any but a 
mountaineer — -are very common in Norway. You see one 
going up Uttlidal above the precipice on the left. The 
place is called Afdal, and the way up to it is a queer one — 
at any rate towards the top, where in more than one case 
vertical crags cross the path. Here shelves 2 or 3 feet 
wide, formed of tree-stems, are supported in front of the 
rock, and they constitute the road, which must be far from 
a pleasant one in winter. A doctor, whom I know, had 
once a rather narrow; escape in descending one of these 
places, after a professional visit at the farm. There was 
snow — he slipped — and came down into a sitting posture, 
with his legs dangling over the edge of the shelf ! Stigegaard, 
above Aardalsvand, is another such nest, only to be reached 
by a ladder ; and there is a gaard in Aurland, built so close 
to the brink of a precipice, that (it is said) they 6 hobble 7 
the legs of the young children, to prevent them strolling too 
near the edge ! When death occurs at farms so badly con- 
nected w T ith the world below, and where (as is often the 
case) it would be difficult to prepare even a shell, the corpse 
has the backbone broken in order that it shall ' pack better/ 
and is borne in a basket on a man's shoulders down to the 
quiet churchyard — or, more probably, to some valley-farm, 
where a coffin awaits it. There is a story, but I will not 
vouch for its truth, that in certain cases where the route is a 
horse-path (and a Norwegian horse is equal to almost any 
track) the body has been lashed astride a pony, and made 
to ride down the crags to its last home. Near jRonnei 2 is a 
gaard on a slope above a curtain of crags which overlook 
the fjord ; and once, when they were about to take a corpse 

1 Stee?2skred in Norsk. 2 See page 45. 



70 



Hoiv to See Norway. 



down to the valley church, the coffin containing it was acci- 
dentally upset, and, thus started, continued rolling over and 
over until it cleared the brink of the precipice, whence it 
plunged hundreds of feet down into the sea below. Many 
of the mountain farms are 20 or even 30 English miles from 
a doctor, and when the attendance of one is essential, his fee 
amounts to 1/. or more, owing to the distance he has to 
come. Now, this is defrayed out of parish funds, in cases 
where the family is too poor to afford it — an admirable plan, 
I think. Much doctoring, however, is done without medical 
help, or with the assistance only of a Jordemoder, who is a 
professional nurse educated at a hospital, and who can 
bleed, cup, and attend confinements (for which in Norway 
doctors are rarely called in). Every parish, I believe, has 
such a woman, and she acts under the doctor. They form an 
excellent institution, and it would be well if we had them 
for our own poor. 

Uttlidal widens out on your rounding the base of another 
spur, on which are some patches of cultivation, and you 
then come in sight of Vette. The farm reposes on the brow 
of a little mound (also an offshoot from the high cliffs which 
flank the valley on the right), 950 feet above the lake. 
Coming from the sombre ravine I had just traversed, it 
looked rather a cheerful place ; there are a few aspen-trees 
about it, two or three cottages for pladsrnoend, 1 and some 
fields of barley. The Morkfos is on the same side of the 
river as the farm, but farther up the valley. It leaps from 
the edge of the mountain plateau, which appears to extend 
for many miles above the precipices of the main chain, and 
both the top and bottom of the fall are accessible — neither 
point being more than 40 minutes from the gaard. I saw it 
from the valley below on the evening of my arrival, and next 
morning (after sleeping at Vette) had a view from the top, 
looking down it from the corner of the brink. 

1 Pladsmccnd may be roughly described as tenant -labourers on a 
farm. 



The Morkfos. 



7i 



To reach the base of the fall, the way is over the brow 
behind the farm, and by a steep descent down to the river. 
An old farmer we took with us from Vette made holes for 
our feet with a pick in coming down this slope, but they 
were hardly needed. You then have to coast the river bank 
for some distance, and here, for perhaps 100 yards, a little 
caution is required in skirting a strip of large debris, as if 
one of the stones slipt it might hurl you into the deep swift 
flood, from which there would be little chance of escape. 
This past, you mount a gentle rise, partly wooded with 
scrubby alders growing amongst large blocks of stone, and 
you then get a front view of the Morkfos — the base of it 
being some 200 yards off. It is a fall of about 1,000 feet, 
and comes down in one plunge from the top, presenting the 
appearance of a feathery tail of foam suspended in a wild 
black framework of crags, more resembling a sharply-cut 
bay than a cleft in the mountain side. Nearly everywhere 
the rocks are vertical, and those flanking the lip on the left 
overhang. Certainly it is one of the two or three finest falls 
in Norway, and I, for my part, prefer it to either the Rjukan 
or the Voring. At the same time, viewed from this point, 
it hardly looks by 200 feet or more its real height. The 
stream, carrying its waters down to the river, is a hasty tor- 
rent split into several threads by islands of shingle and 
debris. The upper portion of the valley running for several 
miles beyond the fall is inaccessible. 

A zigzag track leads from Vette on to the plateau above 
the fall. This is a large district called Vettesmarker, and 
there are peaks rising from it which (it is said) command 
good views of the stern Horungtinder range. The track, I 
ought to mention, is the commencement of a horse-path 
from Vette to Gelle. There are saeter on Vettesmarker, 
and at one of them is a bridge leading over the stream 
which supplies the fall. This stream — nothing more than a 
mountain 'beck' in point of size — rustles, with many a little 
tumble in its course, through a wood of birch and Scotch fir. 



72 



How to See Norway. 



At the lip or edge over which it rushes, the breadth can 
hardly be more than 14 feet, but it is tolerably deep. Gazing 
down from this point, one is struck with the extreme wild- 
ness of form among the crags round, or rather below, the 
brink of the fall ; and the valley itself is a grand feature 
in the scene, for on the opposite side the precipices are 
almost mural; there is also a cascade bounding down nearly 
in front pf you, making a succession of long white jumps — 
which in any country, Norway excepted, would draw a sum- 
mer stream of tourists to the vale. 

Had the weather been fine (it rained all the time I was 
on the plateau), and I had not been somewhat pushed for 
time in order to catch a steamer, I should much have liked 
to have spent a day or two in the neighbourhood. It is a 
district worth exploring, and as yet almost, if not quite, un- 
known to English travellers. 

The people at the farm, Anfin Jorgensen and his wife 
Johanna 6 Iversdatter/ had never, or certainly not for the 
last eleven years, received a visit from an Englishman. I 
found them nice, kind people, who did their best to make 
me comfortable. Of course, theirs is but a homely dwelling, 
and far too out of the world to afford the luxuries that some 
Norwegian ' tourists' might vainly enquire for. It is a very 
old-fashioned-looking house inside, and, as is so frequently 
the case in Norway, there are sacred verses carved or painted 
on the panels and doors. Here is one which I give literally 
as it stood : — 

' Naar vi gaar ind, naar vi gaar ud, 
da tsenk paa os, O milde Gut.' 

(Trans.) i When we go in, when we go out, 
then think of us, O merciful God.' 



Note. — From aneroid observations taken below and at the top of the 
fall, I made the height of the Morkfos about 1,040 English feet. I was 
told that an ordnance -survey officer in 1867 computed it at 986 English 
feet ; measurements by two other gentlemen have given it as 1, 100 and 
1,029 English feet respectively. I saw the Fos when there was com- 
paratively little water in it ; early in the summer, during the melting of 
the snows, it must be twice as fine. 



Steamers between Throndhjem and Vads'6. 73 



CHAPTER VI. 

Notes on the Coast Route between Throndhjem and Hammerfest. 

The mail-steamers run all the year round from Throndhjem 
to Hammerfest, and during the summer months their course 
is continued from the last-mentioned town on to Vadso. 
They vary considerably in point of size and accommo- 
dation ; and as occasionally there may be a scarcity of 
berths, travellers who drive up the country, intending to 
embark at Throndhjem, will do well to be there at least a 
day before the vessel starts, in order to secure places. I 
doubt whether this can always be done by telegram from 
Chfistiania, unaccompanied as the message must be by 
payment of fare. I ought to mention that some (at least) 
of these boats really commence their voyage north from 
Hamburgh, and call at Christiansand, Bergen, Molde, and 
perhaps other places on their way to Throndhjem. At 
present there is but one steamer a week from Throndhjem 
to the north; but there was some talk last year of there 
being two during future summers, an arrangement which, 
if carried into effect, will be a great convenience to those who 
wish to linger a few days at different points along the coast, 
for they will no longer be obliged to remain a whole week 
at each, as they now are, before proceeding farther north. 

The tabular portions of the following notes have been 
constructed from one of last summer's time-tables, and 
will probably be found pretty correct for the present year 
(187 1), and for many years to come — at any rate as regards 
the mails leaving Throndhjem every Wednesday noon. 

The first column gives the names of the stations ; the 
second the days on which steamers northward-bound touch 
at each, and their hours of departure (except when otherwise 



74 



How to See Norway. 



stated) from towns where a long stoppage is made. The 
third column shows the days of calling, &c., for steamers 
returning from Hammerfest, i.e. southward-hoxmA, and, of 
course, must be read upwards from the bottom of the page. 

On such a long trip, and where there are so many 
stoppages, great punctuality can never be expected ; many 
delays occur, caused by bad weather, the time spent in 
shipping or unshipping an unusual quantity of cargo, &c. 
The halt at small stations varies in length from a few 
minutes to an hour or more. 

I will now proceed with the route, giving a few remarks 
of my own on those portions of it which appear to me the 
most interesting. 



Names of Stations 


Times — going N. 


Times — going S. 


Throndhjem 


Leave Wednesday 


Arrive Tuesday 




12 A.M. 


about midday 


Rodbjerget 






Beian 




Tuesday morning 


Valdersund 






Stoksund 






Sydkrogo 







Let me observe here that o is Norsk for ' island/ and all 
stations whose names terminate in o are situated on islands. 



Ramso 

Bjoroen 

Namsos 



Thursday, 3 A.M. 



Namsos is a small town on a fjord, into the head of 
which flows the celebrated salmon-river Namsen. The 
forests along the. shores contain quantities of Spruce-fir ; 
north of this point I have never remarked any. There is 
a land route from here to Throndhjem, via Lev anger, 

Foslandsosen 
Rorvig 
Gutvig 
Bronosund 



The Seven Sisters, Hestmandd. 



75 



Bronosiind is the nearest station to the curious island 
Torghatten (page 56), and you may generally see the light 
through its natural tunnel in passing. 



Names of Stations 


Times — going N. 


Times — going S. 


Vivelstad 




Monday morning 


Tjoto 






Sovig 







The grand scenery of the coast with its mountain-islands 
may be said, I think, to commence about here. Just north 
of Sovig you pass the c Seven sisters J a lofty wall of crags 
notched into seven peaks, and separated from the shore by 
a large plain, ribbed by one or two low ridges parallel to 
the main chain. On my voyage south last year a splendid 
effect was produced by a bank of clouds, which, floating 
oyer the extremity of the plain, screened from view all but 
the big, haggard pinnacles; these, bursting out of the mist 
and seeming to be isolated in the clear air above, formed a 
most remarkable picture. 

Sannesoen 
Kobberdal 
Vigholmen 
Indre Kvaro 

The last station, which in steaming north you generally 
reach late on Thursday night or early next morning, lies 
close to the Hestmandd — one of the boldest-shaped islands 
along the whole route. It stands on the Arctic circle, in 
form a mountain some 2,000 (?) feet high, and terminating 
in a peak. This peak, viewed from portions of the ship's 
course, presents the appearance of an overhanging tower, 
and is said to be inaccessible. There are some large 
caverns of guano— one not far from the top. About 120 
people inhabit the base. Hestmandd lies in rather an 
interesting district, and should any of my readers desire to 



76 



How to See Norway. 



explore it, the plan is to leave the steamer at Indre Kvard 
and take a row-boat from the station to A?idklakken, on 
another island about half a N. mile distant, where, at the 
house of a landhandler, good accommodation may be 
found. I ought to mention, before proceeding further, that 
at some of the stations no lodging at all is to be had. Due 
west of Hestmando there may be observed on the sea 
horizon three bluish lumps, reminding one of fragments 
of a colossal ruin. These are islands called Treoerne (or 
as the map has it Thrcenen — I don't know which name 
is most correct), and can be reached from here by a sail- 
boat. The coast scenery of these islands, which, by the 
way, are inhabited, would probably be striking enough to 
compensate one for the voyage, supposing the weather 
favourable. There and back, &c, would require two days. 
You may also take a boat from Andklakken (or the station), 
cross over to the main-land and, continuing up a fjord, 
reach a gaard called Foiidalen, close to which a glacier 
terminates, extending almost to the water's edge. A little 
north of Hestmando is Bolgeno, on which are some tumuli — 
graves of ancient heroes. Most of my information respect- 
ing this district was furnished me by the doctor of Hest- 
mando. 

As the vessel proceeds fresh mountain-islands keep rising 
into view, at first appearing on the horizon (or sometimes, 
owing to mirage, above it) like dim grey peaks, and de- 
veloping more and more distinctly as you near them their 
wildness of outline and precipice. Stotroden, between 
Hestmando and the next station, is a good example of the 
class. The mountains forming the main-land coast, and 
which many of them spring up in steep slopes direct from 
the waves, are no less remarkable for savage grandeur than 
are the islands. Some of the tops may have an elevation 
of 3,000 feet or more. 



Rodo. The Vestfjord. 



77 



Names of Stations 


Times — going N. 


Times— going S. 


Rodo 


Friday morning 





The traveller ought to observe the singular structure of 
this island. It has a ribbed formation, showing vertical 
joints all along the east side, and presents a wall-like preci- 
pice towards the west. I believe the whole of this coast 
with its islands to be of gneiss, or some rock varying in com- 
position between that and pure granite. 



Melovser 
Gilleskaal 
(Leave) Bodo 



4 P.M. 



Sunday 8 A.M. 



This is a small town, possessing no interest for tourists, 
and backed by tame scenery, where steamers usually remain 
several hours. From the low hills in the neighbourhood a 
good view of the midnight sun may be had in clear weather 
up to July io. 

Kjerringo I 1 

Groto 

At Groto, I understand, the landhandler has lodging for 
travellers. The place consists of only one or two houses 
curiously situated on a little island nearly under a lofty 
precipice. From here the steamer strikes across the so- 
called Vestfjord (properly speaking a sound), which separates 
the Lofotenoer (Lofoten Islands) from the main -land. The 
passage, of about four hours, is generally made in the night ; 
but, weather permitting, all tourists ought to be on deck for 
at least an hour before the first station on them is reached, 
as the view presented by the long array of crisp jagged out- 
lines during the approach is one not easily forgotten. Having 
already (page 34) touched upon the general features of the 
Lofotenoer, I will now merely add a few remarks on cer- 
tain localities along their shores. 



How to See Norway. 



JN ames 01 otations 


J. imes — going .N • 


JL lnies— going o. 


Balstad 






Stene 


Saturday morning 




Henningsvaer 






Svolvser 







The stern nature of these island-coasts is nowhere more 
conspicuous than about Hennmgsvcer and Svolvcer. Close 
to the former of these stations towers up from the waves a 
lofty and apparently inaccessible aiguille, said to be a por- 
tion of Vaagekallen, the highest mountain in the group. The 
altitude of the summit is put down in a Norwegian book of 
heights 1 at about 4,013 English feet, but I doubt its being 
so much. (I have given a rough sketch of the cliffs by Hen- 
ningsvaer. It was taken somewhat hastily from the deck 
of a steamer in 1858, and has little pretension to great 
accuracy.) 

After leaving Svolvaer the course is through a remarkable 
channel called the Raftsiind, some 20 miles long ; one may 
almost term it a water-gorge in parts. This 6 sound ' forms 
a break between two islands, and is walled in on both sides 
by steep slopes, often rising abruptly from the dark sea 
below, and in places attaining a height of perhaps 3,000 feet, 
their higher and more inland portions being abundantly 
clothed with snow, and fretted into countless peaks and 
knotty summits of the wildest character. This passed, and 
after traversing a more open sund beyond, the steamer 
reaches — 

I Stokmarknaes | | | 

a station on the island called Ulvd or Hasseld, and where 
good accommodation may be had at the landhandler's. 
Svolvaer is also a capital stopping-place, and I should recom- 

1 Hoidemaalinger i Norge fra Aar 1774 til i860, samlede af A. Vibe. 
Published in Christiania, i860. 



Lofoten Islands. 



79 



mend both these stations as convenient centres from which 
to commence boat excursions, supposing the weather fine. 
By means of a sail-boat much may be seen that lies out of 
the steamer-route and which is well worth exploring. From 
Stokmarknces a grand trip would be along the north-west 
coasts of the Lofotenoer, which have been described to me 
by a Norwegian as finer than any other part. The glens and 
mountains of the Raftsund might also be visited. Doubt- 
less there are many houses sprinkled along the shores of 
most of the islands, where tolerable quarters might be ob- 
tained for a night or two. These may be ascertained on 
enquiry at such a place as Stokmarknces. Mr. Bonney, in 
his interesting paper on the Lofotens, mentions several. 1 
The steamer returning from Hammerfest is generally passed 
somewhere about the Lofotenoer. 

When I first visited these islands, in 1858, Steilo was the 
station on U/vo, and I shall never forget the glorious view 
from a mountain near there, of no great height, on which 
I spent the greater part of a sun-light summer's night. 
Looking across the narrow sea, a large portion of the 
horizon was screened by mountain-islands, some of them 
perspectively joined together and forming a nearly con- 
tinuous chain of tall, jagged pinnacles patched with snow 
and glacier, and lit up by the morning sun blazing in a 
nearly clear sky. 

Ulvo, as well as several other islands on the Arctic coast, 
abounds with ptarmigan, and is generally let (and of course 
preserved) as a shooting-ground for the amusement of 
certain British sportsmen. 

1 The Lofoten Islands, by T. G. Bonney, M.A., F.G.S., published 
in vol. IV. p. 427 (Number for February 1870) of the ' Alpine 
Journal.' Well worth reading whilst the tour of the islands is being 
made. 



So 



How to See Norway. 



Names of Stations 


Times — going N. 


Times — going S. 


Trano 




Saturday morning 



From Stokmarknses the course is back again through the 
Raftsund and then across the northern end of the Vestfjord 
to Trano. Several of the mountains seen on your left after 
leaving the Lofotenoer, display singularly wild outlines ; I 
would instance a spire-like peak on Hindo, and an ex- 
tremely bold mass, apparently 3,000 feet high, which culmi- 
nates in a stack of bare rocky horns near Hammerd. One 
point, if not the whole of this mountain, goes by the name 
of the Tiltihorn. A big fell with three pikes, just south of 
Trano, also deserves notice. 



Kjeoen 
Lidland 
Lodingen 
Sandtorv 
Harstadhavn 
Havnvig 
Kastnaeshavn 
Kloven 
Gibostad 
Maalnoes 
(Leave) Tromso 



Sunday morning 



Monday, 12 P.M. 



Friday morning 
Thursday 10 P.M. 



The grandeur of the scenery fades long before you reach 
Tromso, the contours becoming low and rounded. The 
steamer ought to get in on Sunday afternoon and leave the 
following day ; but even should she be a few hours late, the 
stay at this rather important town is ample to enable one to 
visit the Lapps (see page 36) in TromsdaL It is a row of a 
few minutes only, from the town-wharf to the main-land, and 
then a boggy walk up the valley of 3 — 3^ E. miles to the 
first Gammas, or Lapp huts. See page 36. 

For those who do not care to proceed further north, there 
is a comfortable little hotel in Tromso where they can 
remain until the departure of the next south-hound steamer ; 



Scenery between Tromsd and Hammer f est. 8 1 



and I think they may reckon on having already passed what 
is best worth seeing on this route. 



Names of Stations 


Times — going N. 


Times — going S. 


Carls 6 

Skjervo 

Loppen 
J Hasvig or 
\6xfjord 

Talvig 

Stromsnaes 

Bosekop 

Komagfjord 
(Arrive at Hammerfest) 


Tuesday morning 

II A.M. 


Thursday morning 



Between Tromso and Hammerfest the route certainly em- 
braces some fine bits of coast scenery, although little of it 
equal to much that has gone before. The views obtained 
in passing the mouths of Lyngenfjord and Kvenangenfjord 
are very noticeable, the mountains being boldish in shape, 
and of great height — I should say 5,000 feet in parts. Glaciers 
are observable, especially about Lyngenfjord, but most of 
them terminate high above the water, and in my opinion 
add little to the general effect. Other glaciers not seen 
from the steamer's usual course, being at points some miles 
up the fjords, are described as coming down nearly to the 
shore, and may be worth visiting. A small steamboat from 
Tromso -makes a trip up one of these fjords and back — I 
imagine weekly — during the summer. Regarding her exact 
route, I can give no details. A big rock far away to the 
left, a few hours after you leave Tromso, will probably strike 
the tourist from its lofty, vertical cliffs. It is a sea-moun- 
tain more than 2,000 feet high, has a small population of its 
own, and is called Fid'o. 

Bosekop, I ought to observe, is on the fjord leading to the 
Alten, the Duke of Roxburghe's celebrated salmon-river. 

Hammerfest is a less inviting-looking place than Tromso : 
in fact, not so good a town. The situation is tame and 

G 



82 



How to See Norway. 



cheerless; the mountains are feeble in outline and of trifling 
elevation. There is plenty of verdure in summer, but not a 
tree to be seen, neither is any grain cultivated. Nevertheless, 
owing to the action of the Gulf-stream, the winter is less 
severe than in numbers of inland localities hundreds of miles 
further south, the temperature seldom being lower than 23 
Fahrenheit ; while mjRoros, south of Throndhjem, the mercury 
often sinks considerably below zero. 

Here, as at Tromso, cod-liver oil is a principal article of 
manufacture, and the smell arising from it, which spreads far 
and wide, is simply awful. 

From the hills behind, and a little NE. of the town, there 
is a view over the whole neighbourhood. I was told the 
Nordkap might be seen from some point, but on going up, 
and being ignorant of the exact direction in which to look, 
I failed to make it out for certain. The walk is, however, 
interesting, as it furnishes one with a general idea of the 
country between Hammerfest and the extreme north. Some- 
times a herd of reindeer, belonging to Lapps living in the 
neighbourhood, may be met with, grazing on the moor. 
They are little more shy than our north of England moun- 
tain-sheep. 

The steamers returning from Vadso meet those going north 
at Hammerfest; that is, they do not leave port till some hours 
after the arrival of the latter. The tourist has thus an 
opportunity of returning south almost immediately from this 
point, should he not feel inclined to 6 round the cape' and 
see the north coast. Before deciding to continue the journey 
it is always advisable to take into account the possibility of 
bad weather during the next five days, and the fact that 
beyond the cape there are some long bits of open sea — i.e. 
where the coast is not sheltered by islands. A good sailor, 
of course, need pay no attention to this remark. 

Never having been round the Nordkap myself, I must refer 
my readers to Murray for a description of the route beyond 
Hammerfest. Judging from what others have told me, the 



The North Cape. 



83 



coast scenery is very inferior to that south of Tromso. 
Among the chief' attractions this continuation of the voyage 
affords are — 1. a sight of the Nordkap itself; 2. an island 
crowded with myriads of sea-birds, always ready to rise in a 
cloud at the report of a gun ; 3. an occasional whale — some- 
times a 'school' of them, These animals, however, are by no 
means uncommon all along the Arctic coast, and sometimes 
come up the fjords : indeed a fair-sized one rose to the surface 
of the Storfjord one day, a little in front of my boat. 4. A 
whaling establishment at Vadso. The harpoon used in killing 
these whales is fired from a gun, and has a shell attached 
to it loaded with poison, 

The Nordkap, or, as we call it, North Cape, is in reality 
only the bold headland of an island called Magerd, which is so 
near to the main-land that it almost forms a portion of it The 
rock may be ascended by leaving the ship at a neighbouring 
station — near which I believe good quarters may be obtained 
— and remaining there till her return from Vadso. To steam 
past this headland, which is about 60 miles north of Ham- 
merfest, or, better still, to stand on the top of it, appears to 
be with many tourists a principal object of their three weeks' 
voyage ; and if, in addition to this, they succeed in making 
a hole in their coat by means of the midnight-sun and a 
burning-glass, their tour is rendered complete ! 

It may be well to observe here that the sun is above the 
horizon at midnight — roughly speaking — two months in the 
summer at Hammerfest, six weeks at Tromso, and, as I 
before stated, up to the 10th July at Bodo. The altitude of 
the sun's centre on the 21st June at the Nordkap is about 14 . 
In many cases, especially late in the season, you can only see 
the sun at 12 p.m. by ascending a hill, there being no sea- 
horizon from below. 

The following are the stations, with the steamer's times, 
between Hammerfest and Vadso : — 



84 How to See Norway. 



Names of Stations 


Times — going N. 


Times — going S. 


(Leave) Hammerfest 


^A/Vdnp^rla v 2AM 


Wprlrjpsrlav T? A m 


Rolfsohavn 


Havosund 






Ma.aso 






Gj 86S vssr 






Kj elvig 






Repvaap; 






Kistrand 






Svserholt 






Lebesby 






Kj 6 lief j ord 




Sunday morning 


Mehavn 






Gamvig 


Thursday morning 




Stangenaes 






Berlevaag 






Baadsfjord 






Syltefjord 






Havningberg 






(Arrive at) Vardo 


Thursday night 




(Leave) Vardo 


Friday, 12 P.M. 


Saturday 8 A.M. 


Vadso 




(Leave) Friday 12 P.M. 



At some of the stations between Hammerfest and Vadso 
the steamer calls only on certain trips specified in the pub- 
lished time-table for each summer. 







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INDEX 



Acton's Modern Cookery 28 

Alcock's Residence in Japan 22 

Allen's Four Discourses of Chrysostom . . 27 

Allies on Formation of Christendom .... 20 

Alpine Guide (The) 23 

Althaus on Medical Electricity 14 

Arnold's Manual of English Literature . . 7 

ABNOTT's Elements of Physics 11 

Arundines Cami 26 

Autumn Holidays of a Country Parson .... 9 

Ayre's Treasury of Bible Knowledge 20 

BACON'S Essays, by Whately 6 

. Life and Letters, by Spedding .. 5 

Works, edited by Spedding 6 

Bain's Logic, Deductive and Inductive .... 10 

Mental and Moral Science 10 

on the Emotions and Will 10 

on the Senses and Intellect 10 

on the Study of Character 10 

Ball's Alpine Guide 23 

Baring's Staff College Essays 2 

Bayldon's Bents and Tillages 18 

Beaten Tracks 22 

Becker's Charicles and Gallus 25 

Benpey's Sanskrit Dictionary 8 

Bernard on British Neutrality 1 

Berwick's Forces of the Universe 12 

Black's Treatise on Brewing 28 

Blaokley's Word-Gossip 7 

German-E nglish Dictionary . . 8 

Blaine's Rural Sports 28 

, Veterinary Art 27 

Bourne on Screw Propeller 18 

Bourne's Catechism of the Steam Engine . IS 

Handbook of Steam Engine 18 

Improvements in the Steam 

Engine 

Treatise on the Steam Engine .. 18 

Examples of Modern Engines .. 18 

Bowdler's Family Skakspeare 26 

Bramley-Moore's Six Sisters of the 

Valleys 24 

Brande's Dictionary of Science, Litera- 
ture, and Art 13 

Bray's (C.) Education of the Feelings .... 10 

Philosophy of Necessity 10 

on Force 10 

Browne's Exoosition of the 39 Articles. .. . 19 

Brunrl's Life of Brunel 4 

Buckle's History of Civilization 4 

Bull's Hints to Mothers 28 

Maternal Management of Children 28 

BUNSEN'S (Baron) Ancient Egypt 4 

, God in History 3 

Memoirs 5 

BUNSEN (E. De) on Apocrypha 20 

_ ^ -s' Keys of St. Peter 20 



Burke's Vicissitudes of Families 5 

Burton's Christian Church 4 

Cabinet Lawyer 28 

Calvert's Wife's Manual 26 

CARR'S Sir R. Whittington 21 

Cates'S Biographical Dictionary 5 

Cats' and Farlie's Moral Emblems 16 

Changed Aspects of Unchanged Truths .... 9 

Chesney's Euphrates Expedition 22 

Indian Polity 3 

Waterloo Campaign 2 

and Reeve's Military Resources 

of Prussia and France, &c 2 

Child's Plrysiological Essays 15 

Chorale Book for England 16 

CLOUGH'S Lives from Plutarch 2 

Colenso (Bishop) on Pentateuch 20 

Commonplace Philosopher 9 

Conington's Translation of the JEneid. ... 26 

CONTANSEAU'sFrench-EnglishDictionaries 8 

Conybeare and HOWSON'S St. Paul .... 19 

Cotton's (Bishop) Life 

Cooper's Surgical Dictionary 14 

Copland's Dictionary of Practical Medicine 15 

COULTHART'S Decimal Interest Tables .... 28 

Counsel and Comfort from a City Pulpit. ... 9 

COX'S Aryan Mythology 3 

Manual of Mythology 25 

Tale of the Great Persian War 2 

Tales of Ancient Greece 25 

Cresy's Encyclopaedia of Civil Engineering 17 

Critical Essays of a Country Parson 9 

Crookes on Beet-Root Sugar 15 

Culley'S Handbook of Telegraphy 17 

Cusack's History of Ireland 3 



D'Aubigne's History of the Reformation 

in the time of Calvin 

Davidson's Introduction to New Testament 1 

Dead Shot (The), by Marksman 2i 

De la Rive's Treatise on Electricity l! 

Denison's Vice-Regal Life 

De Tocqueville's Democracy in America ! 

Disraeli's Lothair 2 

Novels and Tales 2 

Dopell's Medical Reports Ii 

DOBSON on the Ox 2 

Dove on Storms 1 

Doyle's Fairyland \ 

Dyer's City of Rome 



Eabtlake's Hints on Household Taste . . 



30 



EASTLAKE's'History of Oil Painting 16 

— Gothic Revival 17 

Life of Gibson 10 

Edmunds's Names of Places 9 

Elements of Botany 13 

ELLICOTT on the Revision of the English 

New Testament 19 

19 
19 
19 
19 
19 
19 



'S Commentary on Ephesians 
— Commentary on Galatians .... 

PastoralEpst. 

Philippiang,&c. 

. Thessalonians 



Howitt's Visits to Remarkable Places. ... 23 

Hubner's Memoir of Sixtus V 2 

Hughes's (W.) Manual of Geography .... 11 

HUME'S Essays io 



—Treatise on Human Nature , 



Lectures on the Life of Christ. . 

Essays and Contributions of A. K. H. B 

Ewald's History of Israel 



FAIRBAIRN on Iron Shipbuilding 18 

'S Applications of Iron 18 

Information for Engineers . . 17 

Mills and Mill work 17 

Faraday's Life and Letters 4 

FARRAR'S Families of Speech 9 

-Chapters on Language 7 

Felkin on Hosiery and Lace Manufactures 18 

Fennell's Book of theRoneh 27 

Fpoulkes's Christendom's Divisions 20 

Fitzwygram on Horses and Stables 27 

FORBES'S Earls of Granard 5 

Fowler's Collieries and Colliers 28 

Francis's Fishing Book 26 

Freshfield's Travels in the Caucasus. . . . 22 

FROUDE'S History of England 1 

Short Studies on Great Subjects 9 



Ganot'S Elementary Pbysics u 

Gilbert's Cadore, or Titian's Country .... 22 

Gilbert and Churchill's Dolomites 23 

Girdlestone's High Alps without Guides 24 

Gladstone's Life of Whitefield 4 

Goddard's Wonderful Stories 24 

Goldsmith's Poems, Illustrated 25 

Gould's Silver Store 26 

Graham's Book about Words 7 

Grant's Home Politics 3 

— Ethics of Aristotle (> 

Graver Thoughts of a Country Parson 9 

Gray's Anatomy 15 

Greenhow on Bronchitis 15 

Grove on Correlation of Physical Forces . . 12 

Gurney's Chapters of French History .... 2 

G wilt's Encyclopaedia of Architecture .... 17 



Hampden's (Bishop) Memorials 4 

Hare on Election of Representatives 7 

HARTWIG'S Harmonies of Nature 13 

Polar World 13 

. Sea and its Living Wonders 



. 13 

- Tropical World 13 

Haughton's Manual of Geology 12 

Herschel's Outlines of Astronomy 11 

Hewitt on Diseases of Women 14 

Hodgson's Theory of Practice 10 

■ Time and Space 10 

Holmes's System of Surgery 14 

Surgical Diseases of Infancy .... 14 

Hooker's British Flora 13 

Horne's Introduction to the Scriptures. . . . 19 

Compendium of ditto 19 

How we Spent the Summer 22 

HOWITT'S Australian Discovery 22 

Northern Heights of London .... 23 

_ Rural Life of England 23 



Ihne's Roman History 3 

Ingelow's Poems 25 

Story of Doom 26 

— ________ Mopsa 26 

Jameson's Saints and Martyrs 16 

Legends of the Madonna 16 

Monastic Orders 1 f> 

Jameson and Eastlake's Saviour 16 

Johnston's Geographical Dictionary ] 1 

Jukes on Second Death 20 

— on Types of Genesis si 

Kalisch's Commentary on the Bible 7 

Hebrew Grammar g 

Keith on Fulfilment of Prophecy 19 

Destiny of the World 19 

Kerl's Metallurgy ]g 

RoHRIG is 

Kirby and Spence's Entomology 13 



LATHAM'S English Dictionary 7 

Biver Plate ] 1 

Lawlor's Pilgrimages in the Pyrenees .... 23 

Lecky's History of European Morals 3 

Rationalism 



Leisure Hours in Town 9 

Lessons of Middle A^e 9 

Lewes' History of Philosophy 3 

Lewis's Letters 5 

Ltddell and Scott's Two Lexicons 8 

Life of Man Symbolised ]6 

Life of Margaret M. Hallahan 21 

Lindley and Moore's Treasury of Botany 13 

Lindsay's Evidence for the Papacy 20 

Longman's Edward the Third 2 

Lectures on the History of Eng- 
land 2 

Chess Openings 28 

Lord's Prayer Illustrated 16 

Loudon's Agriculture is 

Gardening ]8 

Plants ]3 

Lowndes's Engineer's Handbook 13 

Lubbock on Origin of Civilisation 12 

Lyra Eucharistica 21 

Germanica 16,21 

Messianica 21 

Mystica 21 



Macaulay's (Lord) Essays 

History of England 1 

Lays of Ancient Rome 25 

Miscellaneous Writings 9 

■ Speeches 7 

Complete Works 1 

Macfarren's Lectures on Harmony if, 

MacLeod's Elements of Political Economy 7 
Dictionary of Political Eco- 
nomy 7 

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81 



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Geographical Dictionary .. 11 

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Pope Pius IX 5 

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Manning's England and Christendom 20 

Marcet on the Larynx 15 

Marshall's Physiology 15 

Marshman'S Life of Havelock 5 

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MARTINEAU'S Christian Life 22 

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MATHESON'S England to Delhi 23 

MAUNDER'S Biographical Treasury 5 

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Historical Treasury 4 

Scientific and Literary Trea- 
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Treasury of Knowledge 28 

Treasury of Natural History 13 

MAY'S Constitutional History of England. . 1 

Melville's Novels and Tales 24 & 25 

Memoir of Bishop Cotton 4 

Mendelssohn's Letters 5 

MERIVALE'S Fall of the Roman Republic. 3 

Romans under the Empire 3 

Merrieield and Ever's Navigation .... 11 

Miles on Horse's Foot and Horseshoeing . . 27 

Horses' Teeth and Stables 27 

Mill (J.) on the Mind 10 

Mill (J. S.) on Liberty 6 

on Representative Government 6 

L on "Utilitarianism 6 

Mill's (J. S.) Dissertations and Discussions 7 

Political Economy 6 

System of Losic 6 

i Hamilton's Philosophy 7 

Inaugural Address 7 

Subjection of Women 6 

Miller's Elements of Chemistry 14 

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Mitchell's Manual of Architecture 17 

Manual of Assaying 18 

Monsell's Beatitudes 21 

His Presence not his Memory 21 

4 Spiritual Songs' 21 

Moore's Irish Melodies 25 

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Morell's Elements of Psychology 10 

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Greece 3 

MURCHISON on Liver Complaints 15 

Mure's Language and Literature of Greece 2 



New Testament, Illustrated Edition ........ 16 

Newman's History of his Religious Opinions 5 

Nightingale's Notes on Hospitals 28 

Nilsson's Scandinavia 12 

Northcote's Sanctuaries of the Madonna 23 

NORTHCOTT's Lathes and Turning 17 

Norton's City of London 23 



Odling's Animal Chemistry 14 

Course of Practical Chemistry.. 14 

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O'Flanagan's Irish Chancellors 5 

Our Children's Story 25 

Owen's Lectures on the Invertebrate Ani- 
mals 12 

Comparative Anatomy and Physio- 
logy of Vertebrate Animals .... 12 



Packe's Guide to the Pyrenees 13 

Paget's Lectures on Surjrical Pathology .. 14 

Pereira's Manual of Materia Medica .... 16 

Perkin's Italian and Tuscan Sculptors. ... 17 

Pewtner's Comprehensive Specifier 28 

Pictures in Tyrol 22 

Piesse's Art of Perfumery 18 

Natural Magic 18 

Ponton's Beginning 12 

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Prendergast's Mastery of Languages.... 8 

Prescott's Scripture Difficulties 20 

Present-Day Thoughts 9 

Proctor on Plurality of Worlds 11 

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The Sun 11 



Rae's Westward by Rail 22 

Recreations of a Country Parson 8 

Reichel's See of Rome 20 

Reily's Map of Mont Blanc 22 

Reimann on Aniline Dyes 15 

Reynolds' Glaphyra, and other Poems .. 26 

Riley's Memorials of London 23 

Rivers' Rose Amateur's Guide 13 

B obbin's Cavalry Catechism 27 

Roger's Correspondence of Greyson 9 

Eclipse of Faith 9 

Defence of ditto 9 

Roget's English Words and Phrases 7 

Roma Sotteranea 24 

Ronald's Fly-Fisher's Entomology 26 

Rose's Ignatius Loyola 2 

Rothschild's Israelites 20 

Rowton's Debater 7 

Rule's Karaite Jews 19 

Russell's (Earl) Speeches and Despatches 1 
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Sandar's Justinian's Institutes 61 

SCHALLEN'S Spectrum Analysis 11 

Scott's Lectures on the Fine Arts 6 

Albert Durer — ... 16 

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Examination for Confirmation . . 21 

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Glimpse of the World 24 

History of the Early Church.... 24 

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Journal of a Home Life 24 

Katharine Ashton 24 

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Margaret Percival 24 

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__« Poems of Bygone Years 25 

Preparations for Communion .... 21 

Principles of Education 21 

Readings for Confirmation 21 

Readings for Lent 21 

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Thoughts for the Holy Week. ... 21 



32 



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Smith's (A. C.) Tour in Portugal 23 

(J.) Paul's Voyage and Shipwreck 19 

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Wit and Wisdom 9 

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Southey's Doctor 7 

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Stanley's History of British Birds 13 

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Stephen's Ecclesiastical Biography 5 

Playground of Europe 22 

Stirling's Secret of Hegel 10 

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Stonehenge on the Dog 27 

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Strickland's Tudor Princesses 5 

Queens of England 5 

Strong and Free 10 

Sunday Afternoons at the Parish Church of 

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(Jeremy) Works, edited by Eden 22 

Thirl wall's. History of Greece 2 

Thompson's (Archbishop) Laws of Thought 7 

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Todd (A.) on Parliamentary Government 1 
Todd and Bowman's Anatomy and Phy- 
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Trench's Ierne, a Tale 24 

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Trollope's Barchester Towers 24 

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Twiss's Law of Nations 27 

Tyndall on Diamajmetism 12 

Electricity 12 

Heat 12 

Imagination in Science 12 

Sound 12 



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Uncle Peter's Fairy Tale 24 

Ure's Arts, Manufactures, and Mines 17 

Van Der Hoeven's Handbook of Zoology 12 

Visit to my Discontented Cousin 24 

Warburton's Hunting Songs 26 

Watson's Principles and Practice of Physic 14 

Watts' s Dictionary of Chemistry .......... 14 

Webb's Objects for Common Telescopes .. 11 
Webster and Wilkinson's Greek Testa- 
ment 20 

Wellington's Life, by Gleig 5 

West on Children's Diseases 14 

Whately's English Synonymes 6 

■- Logic . ; 6 

Rhetoric . 6 

Whately on a Future State 21 

Truth of Christianity 22 

White's Latin-English Dictionaries 8 

Wilcock's Sea Fisherman 27 

Williams's Aristotle's Ethics 6 

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Williams on Climate of South of France 15 

Consumption 15 

Willich's Popular Tables 28 

Willis's Principles of Mechanism 17 

WiNSLOW on Light 13 

Wood's Bible Animals 13 

Homes without Hands 12 

Woodward and Cates's Encyclopaedia.. 4 

Yardley's Poetical Works 26 

Yonge's English-Greek Lexicons 8 

Editions of Horace* 26 

History of England 2 

YOUATT on the Dog 27 

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Zeller's Socrates 6 

Stoics, Epicureans, and Sceptics.. 6 

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